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Inversion Therapy  

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tim Wolfe, George Rosenthal
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Jul 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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the start. llc cruxy. definitely use the stick at ...

Description 

An amazing route going out the center of the huge roof. After an initial hard move (stick clip is nice) the route backs off slightly as it turns the first roof via a large crack. After the 5th bolt it moves up and left tackling the center of the overhang passing another 6 or 7 bolts. The crux is not any single move but instead it is the pump no let up until you reach the chains. Lowering off you will be 40 feet from the wall.

Location 

The giant roof you can't miss on the rightmost section of the wall.

Protection 

Bolts - 12 or so plus chains. Lower off, second will need to clean or you might be able to clean from above if you are tricky (Probably just easier to do another hero lap on the toprope to clean it).


Photos of Inversion Therapy Slideshow Add Photo
The route. Once through the crack, bust left out to the hidden arete via the yellow rock.
The route. Once through the crack, bust left out t...

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By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 25, 2012

Despite the sketchy start, this is a really great climb. Stick clip recommended.
2 cruxes. Getting off the ground is the first. For me, the very last draw before the chains was the second crux. It's a pumpy route and I had a hard time finding a clipping hold.
Definitely a must do! Well worth the hike.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 28, 2012

Fun route, but I won't give it 4 stars like Mr. Hummus there. It doesn't get much traffic for obvious reasons, so I found it kind of dirty(that dried green moss crap) with some holds that aren't secured(some X'd with chalk). The setting is great, and I love the pumpy nature of the climbing, despite the standard bcc flat leaners rather than actual jugs. Is it worth the hike? I would say no. This rivals anything in bcc as the worst approach you can find. Stick with the Millstone proper.