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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pete Davis, Dan Hare, 2008
Season: All
Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: J. Fox on Jan 2, 2009
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Mike W. leading Intuition, 1/2/2009.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>


About 40' left of The Ground Doesn't Lie. Climb a dirty/broken chimney/dihedral to a ledge, then up the face following the three bolts present. Two bolt anchor on the face where it finally gets interesting.


This is in the Overhang area, left of The Ground Doesn't Lie.


Three bolts, but a large nut protects the run out before the first bolt, which is about 20' off the deck.

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By Tom Shelly
Aug 8, 2009

Both my friend and I climbed this route today (8-8-09) and it was not a fun route in our opinions. The run out to the first bolt is long and unnecessary. The run out between bolts 1 & 2 is also long. The route felt more like an 8 instead of a 7. The line was full of loose rock and debris. We will not waste our time on this one again....

By Jason Jolly
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2009

Climbed with Tom... If you go to the right of the last bolt (and anchors for that matter), it's VERY brittle and loose. May not be safe.
I ended up having to go left both times to feel comfortable with holds that didn't move.

By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jan 10, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Easy to protect runout below bolt 1, and between b1 and b2 if you want, with nuts or cams. Cracks are still a bit dirty, but not a problem. Some of the potential holds on right of upper section do feel a bit weak, but plenty of choices. Maybe the loose ones are gone now.