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unknown climber leading the beautifulo classic 5.7...
This really good route climbs the nice looking finger and thin hands crack left of Hough's Crack on the north face of the breadloaves. Probably one of the most popular routes at the City, and with good reason.
Climb the obvious steep and lovely crack - easier than it appears. Chickenheads abound on the upper section.
Stoppers, red alien sized cams are nice, hand sized pieces are useful for building an anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Intruding Dike and Hough's Crack on Lower Breadloa...
awesome pitch, not nearly as hard as it looks from...
Me on my first Trad lead in the City.
partway up the pitch
BETA PHOTO: Closeup of route.
|Comments on Intruding Dike
|By Nathan Fisher|
Aug 5, 2006
Do what Steve says and climb the next face to the top following the same eroded dike that you climbed on the first face. A 70 meter rope will get you down from the chains. Great beginner crack climb as the stances are everywhere.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 20, 2006
Near the top of the crack on the 1st pitch, it is possible to climb runout patina jugs on the right for 30ft to the top.
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Jul 10, 2010
A wonderful little piece at the grade. A good way to loosen up those stiff fingers first thing in the morning or cruise a last pitch of the day on fried forearms.
|By steven sadler|
From: south jordan, UT
Jul 20, 2010
if you want to top rope this route and you only have a 60 meter rope don't go all the way to the top. stop about 20 feet short on the top of the huge flake and set up chains there. i made that mistake there and ended up having to belay from the top for 45 min or so.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2011
In the Bingham guide it says belay and walk off. It you TR from a gear anchor you would only need a 50m rope. Actual route length is about 65ft.
Oct 30, 2011
follow the weakness towards the top of bloody fingers [almost - gear anchor, .75 1 2] , wrap bloody fingers and get yer TR on...
|By Steven Reneau|
Jun 27, 2012
Closest anchors are just left of where crack tops out, past fissure. Twist and Crawl. If you have a 60m, accessible farther left are Bloody Finger anchors.