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Jun 8, 2014
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
nbrown wrote:
Maybe we should all have a slab-off... Would be fun! We could meet somewhere in Cashiers. Any takers?


That does sound like fun. Need to wait till it gets cold again. It's getting too greasy out there now
Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points
Administrator
Jun 8, 2014
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumblin...
rock_fencer wrote:
Al that being said - i'm equally shocked that groover had bolts to it considering entry level climbers have been at it for a few years now without major incident that i know of.

Well, I'm glad I led it before it got tamed. As has been said, it's the FA's prerogative, but it's baffling that he would feel the need to do this on a route that's been established for over 30 years. Sad.

JL
saxfiend
From Decatur, GA
Joined Nov 14, 2006
4,571 points
Jun 8, 2014
East Buttress Direct, SEWS, WA Pass.
nbrown wrote:
Maybe we should all have a slab-off... Would be fun! We could meet somewhere in Cashiers. Any takers?


Oh...now we have something going! We need to have a MP/slab climber anonymous/aficionados/get together. Maybe Ammons Branch or Panthertown CG. Do some serious slab/groove/crimping/crystal pulling throw down! Coming this fall/winter!
Jeff Mekolites
From HOTlanta, GA
Joined Jan 4, 2007
4,654 points
Jun 8, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
Jeff Mekolites wrote:
Oh...now we have something going! We need to have a MP/slab climber anonymous/aficionados/get together. Maybe Ammons Branch or Panthertown CG. Do some serious slab/groove/crimping/crystal pulling throw down! Coming this fall/winter!


shit i hate slab but if i can get away from school....as long as its better than the pisgah climbers festival from a few years back - that was such an awkward event
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Jun 8, 2014
Hey Medic,
I see that you're in Pittsford.
I'm just south of you in Naples.
LG is awesome, been there on a road trip a few years ago.
For a moderate intro to slab, aka friction climbing, head to the 'Dacks and hop on Chapel Pond Slab.
Numerous routes across the slab ranging from 5.4 up.
BTW, the last time I climbed at LG, there was a god damned 4' Timber rattler living in the boulder field below The Nose...
Tacoma
Joined Nov 6, 2010
50 points
Jun 8, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
Tacoma wrote:
BTW, the last time I climbed at LG, there was a god damned 4' Timber rattler living in the boulder field below The Nose...


oh they live everywhere around the base - be very careful at hidden wall too as the base of it is untrampled prime snake territory. They wont bother you if they don't get bothered. We had lunch with one just kinda crawling around us from hole to hole - unnerving to say the least
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Jun 8, 2014
I was up at Fall Creek Falls in TN, which is just more of the unlimited rock in TN, wandering along the top of a 150' cliff on a steep scree slope looking for a rumored rap anchor, when a big fat rattler exploded out of the rubble right at my feet. Went straight up in the air for 10' (OK, maybe 18", I'm an old white guy), teetered on the edge on the loose crap and came the closest I can remember to the big plunge. Spent the next 15 minutes throwing off rocks and screaming, because I was going to kill the prick if I could find it. Never did. Oh well.
Then there was 'Flight of the Copperhead'...
Jim Corbett
Joined Sep 19, 2008
2 points
Jun 8, 2014
Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...
nbrown wrote:
Maybe we should all have a slab-off... Would be fun! We could meet somewhere in Cashiers. Any takers?


We should do it in a neutral zone like Table Rock SC. Its like Big Green, but steeper and still slab.
TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,681 points
Jun 8, 2014
Ya'll don't want none. Mtn. Dumass
Joined Apr 11, 2014
0 points
Jun 9, 2014
Stray dog found in rural Alabama w severe mange. T...
TomCaldwell wrote:
We should do it in a neutral zone like Table Rock SC. Its like Big Green, but steeper and still slab.


...is not.

Either way, I'll be there representing the Alabama set.
BHMBen
From The Briar Patch
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,664 points
Jun 9, 2014
saxfiend wrote:
Well, I'm glad I led it before it got tamed. As has been said, it's the FA's prerogative, but it's baffling that he would feel the need to do this on a route that's been established for over 30 years. Sad. JL


You can make any route less tame by skipping bolts or leaving the rope in the bag. Adding bolts makes the route more accessible to climbers who are not after the "if I mess up, I'm dead" rush.
Manfre
Joined Dec 14, 2013
0 points
Jun 9, 2014
(Yawn)

Somebody wake me up when they fix Big Green.

:)
Paul Barnes
From Gainesville, Georgia
Joined Nov 30, 2007
27 points
Administrator
Jun 9, 2014
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumblin...
Manfre wrote:
You can make any route less tame by skipping bolts or leaving the rope in the bag. Adding bolts makes the route more accessible to climbers who are not after the "if I mess up, I'm dead" rush.

Fortunately, this point of view is not subscribed to by most NC climbers. If anyone has ever "messed up and died" on the (former) P4 runout of Groover, I've never heard about it.

JL
saxfiend
From Decatur, GA
Joined Nov 14, 2006
4,571 points
Jun 9, 2014
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai
TomCaldwell wrote:
We should do it in a neutral zone like Table Rock SC. Its like Big Green, but steeper and still slab.


Great idea! Would be good publicity for the wall.

Intense place for sure. Wonder if there would still be any shit talking at the end of that day...
nbrown
From western NC
Joined Nov 6, 2007
4,977 points
Jun 9, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
Probably only after we all change pants from doing Andrews routes rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Jun 9, 2014
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
I'll go ahead and concede defeat to many of you right now. But I can lead your warm ups for you. It's going to be on! Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Joined Oct 5, 2009
872 points
Jun 9, 2014
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai
Sounds like a consensus then, Table Rock this November? I'm in!

On second thought, a little shit talking might be fun, especially from the geriatric crowd (as long as nobody gets their feelings hurt).
nbrown
From western NC
Joined Nov 6, 2007
4,977 points
Jun 9, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
Mark O'Neal wrote:
I'll go ahead and concede defeat to many of you right now. But I can lead your warm ups for you. It's going to be on!


there are a few good moderate routes up there and a good bit of potential so i wouldnt sweat it. but there is also stuff thats just ridiculous up there as well.
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
253 points
Administrator
Jun 9, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
TomCaldwell wrote:
There does seem to be a correlation of old age to making routes safer. I can think of several recent FA retros or new routes that have had more safety margin than they would have years ago by the old-timers. So don't point the finger at the younger generation boo or Jim. The geezers are getting soft, especially in the middle.


More like the geezers have had more experience in life..and death, and aren't as ruled by youthful testosterone and proving how manly they are. Notice in general it is guys who make a big deal about the need to do big runouts and the size of their balls. Most women I know think it is pretty silly.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,499 points
Jun 10, 2014
If the FA puts up a turd. It should be cleaned up. Either by adding, moving, or chopping. 1 bolt on a 1000ft climb? Does that count as a retro? The so called runout pitch(on groover) didn't need a bolt. It was the last pitch that needed a bolt.
NC has more crappy FA's than bold. I was dumb enough to do this route in crap style now everybody else should follow my dukie stain. NC climbing is borderline wasted resource.
I'm just glad I learned to climb on these so called runout slabs.
Mtn. Dumass
Joined Apr 11, 2014
0 points
Jun 10, 2014
Upper pitches on Crescent Tower, Bugaboos.
Mtn. Dumass wrote:
If the FA puts up a turd. It should be cleaned up. Either by adding, moving, or chopping. 1 bolt on a 1000ft climb? Does that count as a retro? The so called runout pitch(on groover) didn't need a bolt. It was the last pitch that needed a bolt. NC has more crappy FA's than bold. I was dumb enough to do this route in crap style now everybody else should follow my dukie stain. NC climbing is borderline wasted resource. I'm just glad I learned to climb on these so called runout slabs.


At least your profile name is fitting.
Jonathan Dull
From Boone, NC
Joined Mar 2, 2012
424 points
Jun 10, 2014
^^^ your last name suits you as well. Mtn. Dumass
Joined Apr 11, 2014
0 points
Jun 10, 2014
grayson highlands
nbrown wrote:
Sounds like a consensus then, Table Rock this November? I'm in! On second thought, a little shit talking might be fun, especially from the geriatric crowd (as long as nobody gets their feelings hurt).


The fine art of NC shit talking is fading slowly from the scene. As an avid practitioner for many years I'm sad to see it go. Hey wait, did you just call me old?
Brian Payst
Joined Jan 7, 2014
15 points
Administrator
Jun 10, 2014
Flailing at the top of Welcome to Crowders
Well at least Medic741 now knows not to post anything about NC slab climbing on the interwebz. I guess it could be worse...he could have asked his question on carolinaclimbers.org :p Chris Whisenhunt
From Fayetteville, WV
Joined Jun 9, 2010
944 points
Jun 10, 2014
grayson highlands
Chris Whisenhunt wrote:
Well at least Medic741 now knows not to post anything about NC slab climbing on the interwebz. I guess it could be worse...he could have asked his question on carolinaclimbers.org :p


Yes, he could have and we would have been happy to answer it there. Sure, there might be some folks with attitude, but no worse than the rest of the interwebz. Disclaimer - I'm the current CCC President, so I'm a little biased.
Brian Payst
Joined Jan 7, 2014
15 points


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