The crux is the overhang at the sixth bolt.
There are secondary cruxes at the third and seventh bolts.
This route is located between Middle Staircase and Mountainside Hipsters (renamed Aspen Fantasy Land). The route goes up left of the large roof which starts just east of where the approach trail meets the cliff.
8 or so draws. It shares a two bolt anchor with Middle Staircase, Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land), and Lucky Groove.
|By Jeff Clune|
Nov 30, 2013
I tried to climb this the other day, and it felt like a 5.6...definitely not a 5.10. Am I missing something? I just followed the bolt line right of Alien Dave...looks to be about the same as in the picture. I was a bit left of the rope line in the picture at the bottom, but that's because the Aspen Fantasyland start is supposed to hug the left side of that roof, no?
Any suggestions? Have any of you climbed this and felt it was ~10b?
It's pretty hard to figure out which route is which between Intoxica and Aspen Fantasy Land with all the bolts around....