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Beehive Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien Dave S 
Back to Bucket Country S 
Chivalry is Dead S 
Five Days One Summer S 
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 
Gypsie Fire S 
Intoxica S 
Lucky Groove S 
Madiera Beach S 
Middle Staircase S 
Monkey and the Engineer S 
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 
Noxious Invasives S 
Phipps' Gardens S 
Priests are Perverts, Too S 
Rip Chords S 
Safari Winch Ride S 
Unnamed Roof Problem S 
Walk on the Wild Side S 
Walking the Board S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,003
Submitted By: Arlo F Niederer on May 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: The location of Intoxica route on Beehive Buttress...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


The crux is the overhang at the sixth bolt.

There are secondary cruxes at the third and seventh bolts.


This route is located between Middle Staircase and Mountainside Hipsters (renamed Aspen Fantasy Land). The route goes up left of the large roof which starts just east of where the approach trail meets the cliff.


8 or so draws. It shares a two bolt anchor with Middle Staircase, Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land), and Lucky Groove.

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By Jeff Clune
Nov 30, 2013

I tried to climb this the other day, and it felt like a 5.6...definitely not a 5.10. Am I missing something? I just followed the bolt line right of Alien Dave...looks to be about the same as in the picture. I was a bit left of the rope line in the picture at the bottom, but that's because the Aspen Fantasyland start is supposed to hug the left side of that roof, no?

Any suggestions? Have any of you climbed this and felt it was ~10b?

It's pretty hard to figure out which route is which between Intoxica and Aspen Fantasy Land with all the bolts around....
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 18, 2014

Sounds like you climbed Middle Staircase and not Intoxica. Middle Staircase is between Alien Dave and Intoxica. They share the same anchors on a large ledge.

Middle Staircase is indeed in the 5.6 range.
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