Into the Sun
||Sport, 2 pitches
|Original: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Francis Hayden and Josh Morris, 2/2001|
|Season: ||Pi is shadey until afternoon, P2 is sunny in winter and fall.|
|Page Views: ||636|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 27, 2009|
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Climbing Into the Sun as a monsoon storm builds om...
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
A two pitch route with an uninteresting start, but merit on both pitches. The second pitch contends with 'It's Got To Be Funky' for having the largest and oddest holds that actually can still pump you out.
This route is the right most route on the low black slab at the Southern end of the West Face of the Crazy Horse Buttress. The line goes up and around the arete onto the sunny South side and finishes up that face to a stance back on the S.W. arete. The line of the route demands breaking it into 2 pitches to avoid drag.
5 bolts to and anchor and 7 more to another anchor. Rap 110' from a bolt and chain anchor on a 70M rope to the ground, or a 60M rope to near the ground and scramble down the last few feet.
By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
We made it down with a 60 meter rope (with stretch). It got us down below the first bolt on the first pitch ... And we just scrambled / down climbed for 10 feet. You might want to tie knots at the ends if you do this. First pitch is a bit of a dud, but it is worth doing it for the second pitch! Fun climbing! Don't tug on the tree. At the top (after the thread) look up and right for the final bolt. It is over a bulge and difficult to see.