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Ledge One
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Into the Mystic S 
Mystical Melange S 
Tom Dennis T 

Into the Mystic 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Raoul Rossiter, Steve Bartlett, 2000
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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A partial mantle at the crux. The route moves righ...

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Description 

Into the Mystic starts from "Ledge One", which is just right of some stone steps at the second steep bit on the trail along the base. As a further reference (I missed Ledge One the first time), high on the upper wall, directly above the stone steps, is a prominent double tree. The climb starts about 20 feet right of the trail at a cluster of trees. A tricky move off the ground followed by moderate climbing leads to the third bolt and two hard moves with a good rest in between. Easy slabs lead the rest of the way to "Ledge Two". Continue on Mystic Mile (10c) for a total of 3 pitches of 10 sport. A decent climb with some good moves, but the upper half is real easy.

Protection 

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.


Photos of Into the Mystic Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing on the low angle slab.
Finishing on the low angle slab.

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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A fun route that seemed a little harder than 10a. Bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot sized piece to anchor the belayer; the starting ledge is exposed and it's a dicey move to the first clip. The crux is a difficult mantel past the third bolt. The route is 95' long.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The step onto the pedestal at the third bolt is done more easily by stemming off the left wall. Excellent climbing past the first four bolts, but it eases significantly from there to the anchors.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

OK route on OK stone. Better to climb up to ledge two than to hike it though- more fun than the trail.
By James R. Arnold
Sep 28, 2008

Nice route and thought the rock was generally good though the route was a little dirty getting to ledge 2. Getting to the first bolt is not trivial and the mantle move is more difficult if you are tall. Very much worth doing. I'd give it more than 1 star and a rating of 9-10a.

Beware of loose rock. A party before us knocked down a rock the size of a basketball as the second came up to ledge 2- it surely would have killed someone if it had hit them.
By Caitlin DeVries
From: Gunnison, CO
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pretty solid, fun route. The mantle moves are sick!