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BETA PHOTO: Looking into the darkness from the belay ledge ato...
Pitch 1. From the top of the gully headwall, scramble/solo up 4th and lower 5th terrain until you are the base of a large and dark chimney on the wall proper. If you decide to rope up for this, you may have to do a bit of simul-climbing or build an intermediate belay (300? feet, 5th class).
Pitch 2. Instead of climbing that unholy and scrappy chimney, this pitch ascends a hand and finger crack through two small roofs just left of the chimney and then ends at a ledge with a prominent dead tree. Watch for deathblocks when pulling the second roof (200 feet, 5.9).
Pitch 3. From the belay ledge, head up and skirt left around the headwall into a thin, black dihedral system and belay on a ledge (200 feet, 5.9+).
Pitch 4. Ascend ledges to a large overhang and make improbable moves through the overhang, placing a medium cam in a mossy, wet crack. This pitch ends on a large terrace where you will have a great view of the Temple (200 feet, 5.9).
Hike up the terrace to the base of the Temple, aiming for a blocky corner and chimney system a bit right of the prominent pillar on the left side of the formation.
Pitch 5. Ascend the blocky corner for most of a ropelength to a ledge that is more or less level with the start of the corner system of the pillar (180 feet, 5.8).
Pitch 6. Make a delicate and runout traverse to the corner system and belay on a small ledge partway up the corner at the base of a slot (200 feet, 5.8).
Pitch 7. We did this last pitch in the dark, so all I can tell you is to head up and right until you top out. Watch for rope drag (200 feet, 5.8).
From the gully, bypass the headwall on its left, and find the path of least resistance to a large ledge below a short cliffband below the upper wall. Solo up this and then follow more ledges to the obvious chimney in the route description.
Descent - now here comes the real business. There is no rap line on the entire formation (didn't think it was wise to aimlessly rap into the nothingness of a new moon night), and so the only way off is to hike. Basically we just headed south and down, skirting the top of the cliff line until we found a way down. Prepare yourself for lots of intense bushwhacking (or should I say bushswimming?), and don't be surprised if you get cliffed out a time or two. Also be careful when traversing around alcoves and overhangs on the way down. We came across a very strange and disturbing noise while trying to get around a cliffband that sounded a lot like hissing and growling. This is adventure climbing from start to finish. Have fun!
Bring a double set of cams to a #3 Camalot and a set of nuts. Offset nuts are helpful. There are no bolts, slings, or fixed gear on the route whatsoever, so belays are with gear or natural anchors only.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Temple from the large terrace ab...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 starts at the base of this wall left of a ...
BETA PHOTO: The headwall on pitch 3. The dihedral is hidden on...
BETA PHOTO: Dihedral on pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: The dead tree on pitch 2 belay ledge.