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Intimidator 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Christian Knight and Bret Crapo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,182
Submitted By: Christian Knight on Apr 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Parker shooting some photos of Blake after the sm...

Description 

Pull the roof to the left of Ledgarithm's third pitch (about 5.7). The first bolt is straight above the belay about 8 feet (all of the bolts are dark powder-coated grey). Then the route goes up about 8 feet more to the roof on the left. It looks hard but it's solid rock and there are great holds.

The second pitch follows the last pitch of Ledgarithm for three bolts and then moves right out over the steep terrain that is incredibly sandy and dirty. The climbing is quite sustained but well protected.

Location 

Climb the first 2 pitches of Ledgarithm then move left for the third pitch and right for the fourth pitch as a variation.

Descent 

Walk off north (recommended), or rappel the route with a single rope.

Protection 

Pitch One: 5 bolts to ring anchors.
Pitch Two: 12 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

  • I would recommend bringing a few longer quickdraws or some slings for this route to cut down on rope drag. If your runners aren't long enough the rope will drag against the lips of the roofs.


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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
May 7, 2008

This is definitely the way to finish the route. Really cool moves over the roof. It's not hard at all, you just need to commit. You can't see either of the first two bolts from the belay, but they're definitely there.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jan 23, 2009

Yeah, Christian, maybe just a little more...it was scary! You're going to put me in Depends prematurely.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 14, 2009

Finished off the free solo with this route. Didn't get to a point where I felt there was a definite crux but the rock seemed a bit cleaner than the lower pitches! And if I had been leading with a rope then I would give it a PG13 rating - well protected!