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The Central Wall
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Intimidation 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Sam Streibert, Dennis Merritt, Steve Arsenault & Bruce Beck, June 1971
Page Views: 2,994
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 16, 2007

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Alexa committing to the second crux on Pitch 1.

Description 

This route is Killer!!! Intimidation is a full-length route up an intimidating wall and none of the pitches will let you down. This is one of the best multi-pitch 5.10s in NH.

The moderate climbing between the cruxes can be a bit run out, and though the hard parts can be scary, they are protected well enough (maybe PG13). The only real R rated climbing is the second pitch traverse and it goes at 5.8.

Pitch one: (5.10b) Start up the moderate ramp system heading toward the corner/crack. Sling two nuts together (I use #10 stoppers) and use them to reach a good high placement before making the moves in to the crack. Without this trick, the pitch is R rated for sure.
Continue up the corner and gain a well deserved rest and a bolt. The crux in my opinion is making a move left after the bolt using crimps to make a big reach and throwing a heelhook up to mantel. From here, climb moderately to the 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.8R) Climb up and clip a pin before making a hair-raising traverse left away from your gear. The climbing is slabby and gets harder as you move left until you get a thank god hold. You can then get a marginal placement to protect your second by climbing back above the traverse and placing a cam in a pocket...This gear is not great so don't bring a second that is not solid on 5.8 friction.

Pitch 3: (5.9+) Climb up above and to the right from the tree ledge gaining a thin crack with some tricky moves involving some face climbing. After you reach a good ledge, continue up a corner to a kick ass right leaning crack that leads to a small stance where you can belay.

Pitch 4:(5.9+) Continue up the right-leaning crack (harder than it looks) and up over a steep section and on to easier climbing. Follow the path of least resistance up and left until you are on a slab with a couple of dikes in it. Some paths up this part are more well protected than others, so choose wisely your route. Belay from the trees or step right and belay from a 2 bolt anchor.

Walk off to the right (north).

Location 

To the left of the chimney of Repentance to the right of the cave look for a corner with a cool hand crack in it about 35-40 feet up. Start up the ramp below.

Protection 

Standard Cathedral rack, 2 nuts linked together will help protect the first pitch (a number #10 stopper works well for this).

The first and second pitches can be a little heady in parts.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 23, 2014
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Apr 16, 2007

I WANT TO CLIMB IT!!!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 12, 2008

I don't know about an R !? If you fall off the traverse, good luck up higher.


john
By burlap submariner
Sep 10, 2009

I dont think that this deserves and "r" rating, with a little engineering you can protect it VERY well. As far as the 5.8 pitch
John is right, if one would fall they would be chewed.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Aug 9, 2010

I Think much of the difficulty of the traverse depends on how high you Are. Lee, you mentioned that the traverse gets harder and harder as you go. We clipped the pin and down climbed a few moves, the down climb and one move left were a little tricky, but then it was virtually a walk across. Kind of the opposite progression of hardness from how it sounds you did it.
By Mark Arsenault
Aug 22, 2010

I did this route yesterday, with my father, (steve arsenault)who did the 1st ascent.
I also don't think this deserves an "R" rating. The traverse left on the second pitch gets easier as you go. Also, on the last pitch, there is a bomber wired nut placement just below the pine tree, at the base of the dike,(which is easy). You can place multiple pieces in a horizontal seam, (bring a nut tool to clean the lichen). One of my favorite routes anywhere
By Anna C.
From: VT
Sep 3, 2010

Those downclimbing moves without long-ish legs are more "steps of faith", and if you are seconding and have to unclip the pin before you do them ... definitely spicy.
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
May 20, 2012

My .02:
(1) 5.10a/b "Nut trick" works pretty well but kinda occupies some of the handholds. Found the move at the bolt to be the crux.
(2) 5.8 (5.5R) 100% agree with E Thatcher above. Trickiest move had the pin right above you, 5.4 or 5.5 as you go across. You can protect the follower by climbing up P3 to get great gear in the flake, keeps the traverse a top rope the whole way.
(3) 5.10a/b I thought this was just as hard as P1 and more sustained, excellent pitch.
(4) 5.9 (5.5R) Getting a bit dirty, even in the 5.9 section.

Killer route overall!
By burlap submariner
Feb 6, 2013

@ drover, If you place the threaded nut at the very bottom of the constriction you will be able to use the groove as a layback which for me was the key to passing the crux.
By stephen arsenault
Apr 29, 2013

Just want to stress what my son said earlier----there is a bomber horizontal seam, just left of the dike, below the pine tree, on the last pitch. Bring a nut tool to clean it out. It takes bomber small nuts, which eliminate the run-out on the lichen covered rock.
Wish I had discovered this on the 1st ascent.
By chuckdrew
Jun 17, 2013

Great route but severely overgrown with lichen as of June 2013. We did the first 3 pitches yesterday and opted not to do the forth pitch due to all the lichen. I am tempted to go clean the route on rappel.

I agree, the R rating is a bit harsh for the second pitch. I am not looking forward to that fall but I doubt it would do you much harm (assuming the pin holds).

Anyway - great route - get out and do it!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 17, 2013

Does no one top out anymore ??? the finish is a bit exciting and cool. Great climb.. best 5.10 on the cliff ??? i'd say so
By chinos
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

agreed strand. the lichen fest at the top is excellent!!
By eurotrash
Jul 23, 2013

The third pitch of this climb appears to have had some recent rockfall, there is a big orange scar on the traverse back right before gaining the crack and evidence of rockfall at the base of the climb.
Although our party cleared off the biggest pieces of loose rock last weekend, there might still be quite some crumbly rock around, so be aware (falling rock will hit the trail below). Special care should be taken if linking pitches two and three as the rope(s) will run right below along the slab below and can potentially be hit by falling rock. Still a great climb and probably no change in grade.
By stephen arsenault
Aug 1, 2013

I went up and surveyed the area of rockfall, and felt that a bolt was perhaps needed for pro.

I was concerned that this route would get far less traffic, and it really needs to get done more often, since the upper pitches are pretty dirty.

After consulting with most of the locals, which approved, I placed a bolt, just above where the old pro. was before the rockfall. I also removed the pin, at the 5.8 traverse, which I placed 45 years ago, since it was crap. I placed it in another spot, close by, and it's pretty bomber.

I rope-soloed the 3rd pitch and felt the move by the bolt was about the same difficulty.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

That makes so much more sense. That bolt had me incredibly confused trying to figure out how and why the FA party would have put it there. We did this in 90 degree sun and it was damn hard. I was giving props to the FFA party the entire way up. It might have been the heat/sun but I thought it was pretty solid 5.10 with fairly devious cruxes if you've never done the route before.

The last pitch is indeed fairly dirty but mostly on the easy slab climbing above the crack.