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Crescent Crack Buttress
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Interplanetary Voyage 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: B. Simmons, M. Bennett & B. Robins, 1985
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: mountainsense on Apr 24, 2009

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Description 

It's really a wonder that this line gets a star in the Ruckman guide--what a flog! Begin in a brushy corner just uphill and to the right of Slam, Jam, Thank You, Ma'am. Climb the slabby corner up and into a squeeze, then wriggle your way out and along a flake until it's possible to pull back into the slot above, which is gritty and features loose rock. Oh, and I almost forgot--the moves getting into the initial squeeze can be wet--and loose. But, perhaps, I'm just a bit biased--I did get throttled by the thing, so you may just want to go find out for yourself... Giv'r!


Protection 

Bring at least a single set of cams, ranging in size from hands to fists. A helmet, in this case, would almost certainly hose you as your head would become irretrievably keyed-in at the top of the first squeeze. Wear pants and long sleeves for good measure.
Once through the offending upper slot, devise a gear anchor, or figure out someway over and to the climber's left--there's a chain anchor in good repair atop Slam, Jam, Thank You, Ma'am. The rappel is maybe 65 feet.



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By mountainsense
Apr 24, 2009

Kudos to Peter for the on-sight, and to Ben for cleaning the lower half of the rig.

By nineplusplus
Apr 27, 2009

its worth a star now that you suckers have cleaned it