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Oct 17, 2013
Here is another chance to be a fake doctor:
Symptoms:
-Middle finger PIP joint feels like it is going to explode when finger is weighted in crimp position
-No tenderness to the touch
-No pulley/tendon pain
-No limited ROM
-I have inured pulleys before. This is not it.

35 years old. Climbing for 12 years. Mostly bouldering indoors lately(3 young children). I have been training hard to break into the V11-12 range. I know that this may be the reason for my injury. I am looking to find out what it is.

Before you tell me to see a real doctor, I have been to all of the hand specialists in my network before. None of them have ever seen "rock climbing related" injuries before. They told me they had never seen a pulley injury in a young person before.

Break out your stethoscopes and diagnose me. Go.
david quatro
Joined Feb 28, 2006
13 points
Oct 17, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: On the Panty Wall at Red Rock in July, peeking to ...
Possibly a stress fracture?

rockrun.com/wp/finger-injuries...
BGraham
From Fullerton, CA
Joined Mar 31, 2008
96 points
Oct 17, 2013
Thanks for the response. I looked it up, but I have no pain at rest or pain to the touch. It doesn't seem like a fracture. david quatro
Joined Feb 28, 2006
13 points
Oct 17, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
At 35yrs old, climbing for 12 years, with 3 children, all the hand specialists in your network missed the obvious diagnosis:



Yer gunna die!

Disclaimer
I am not a Dr. but often portray one on the internet.

Hope you get this injury healed up.
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
810 points
Oct 18, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rrrrr
david quatro wrote:
Here is another chance to be a fake doctor:


probably rabies or lupus, but we can't rule out ectopic pregnancy
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,507 points
Oct 18, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Mathematical!
Arthritis? Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
139 points
Oct 18, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Moss
I wouldn't rule out gonnasyphylherpeaids. The ectopic pregnancy is very unlikely. Jason Todd
From Cody, WY
Joined Apr 21, 2012
636 points
Oct 18, 2013
I've sprained the pip collateral ligaments a couple times on my dominant hand index finger. Each time I took time off from climbing and avoided anything painful. Squeezing light theraputty provided it isn't painful might accelerate healing (regardless of which exact structure is injured) marty funkhouser
Joined Dec 8, 2007
34 points
Oct 18, 2013
You have what we call "idiopathic hand pain." Take 3-6 months off of climbing.

Signed,

Dr. Internet
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
193 points
Oct 18, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo:
david quatro wrote:
35 years old. They told me they had never seen a pulley injury in a young person before.


I'm glad I'm not the only one who agrees with the "young person" part of it.
SinRopa
From parts unknown
Joined Sep 4, 2013
104 points
Oct 18, 2013
Sounds like a question for
Dr Sanders
amarius
Joined Feb 23, 2012
14 points
Oct 18, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Picacho
It's called threeyoungchildrenandboulderingitis. The only cure is a medication called Fuckitall. Available at your nearest dispensary... saguaro sandy
Joined Oct 12, 2013
140 points
Oct 18, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Picacho
Disclaimer: one of the side effects of Fuckitall is nomadism. saguaro sandy
Joined Oct 12, 2013
140 points
Oct 21, 2013
david quatro wrote:
Here is another chance to be a fake doctor: Symptoms: -Middle finger PIP joint feels like it is going to explode when finger is weighted in crimp position -No tenderness to the touch -No pulley/tendon pain -No limited ROM -I have inured pulleys before. This is not it...


I'm a real doctor, but I'll try being a fake one just for you :-) My practice does include a fair number of rock climbers, mountain bikers, and whitewater kayakers, mainly because I am. And I have *definitely* seen young people with pulley injuries! All, come to think of it, overuse injuries from bouldering. Hmm... there's a lesson there somewhere, I think...

Which pulleys have you injured in the past? I'm guessing the usual A2 and A4. I suspect this one feels like "this is not it" because this time you've injured either C1 or A3. If I had to bet, I'd go for A3, because it's also the palmar side of the joint capsule, which gets stressed particularly when loaded in the crimp position.
Lee Green
From Edmonton, Alberta
Joined Nov 24, 2011
62 points
Oct 22, 2013
Lee,
Thanks for the reply. The reasons I thought it was not a pulley are that there is no pain anywhere on the finger when I apply pressure and the pain is on the "non-palmar" side of my finger(top). The other pulley injuries I have had definitely resulted in pain whe pressure was applied. Does this change your "diagnosis?" Thanks
David
david quatro
Joined Feb 28, 2006
13 points
Oct 22, 2013
david quatro wrote:
Lee, Thanks for the reply. The reasons I thought it was not a pulley are that there is no pain anywhere on the finger when I apply pressure and the pain is on the "non-palmar" side of my finger(top). The other pulley injuries I have had definitely resulted in pain whe pressure was applied. Does this change your "diagnosis?" Thanks David


Yes, it does. Is the pain right on the joint line, or is it on the base of the middle phalanx just past the joint line? I'm thinking you've either injured the extensor hood or the cartilage on the base of the phalanx dorsally. You may be subluxing the PIP joint when you load it in a crimp; can you tell if you are?

(I can just hear the rad techs trying to figure out how to do a "weight-bearing" view for that one!)
Lee Green
From Edmonton, Alberta
Joined Nov 24, 2011
62 points
Oct 22, 2013
+10 for Lee.

Lee Green wrote:
Yes, it does. Is the pain right on the joint line, or is it on the base of the middle phalanx just past the joint line? I'm thinking you've either injured the extensor hood or the cartilage on the base of the phalanx dorsally. You may be subluxing the PIP joint when you load it in a crimp; can you tell if you are? (I can just hear the rad techs trying to figure out how to do a "weight-bearing" view for that one!)
Lauer
From Duluth, MN
Joined Apr 29, 2008
2 points
Oct 22, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: The third pitch traverse of Bonnie's Roof, Gunks
I am replying on behalf of my spouse who is a PT, climber and Internet Doc for you. She says:

"My guess is that you either have a volar plate injury/avulsion or an extensor mechanism hood tear. Either requires rest, possible splinting to avoid deformity, but ensure ROM when splint is off. Also check out buddy taping all the time for a short while (week or so)"
JeanGClimbs
From Reading, VT
Joined Jul 17, 2006
181 points
Oct 22, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
I'll put the word out to all the links to 'doctors' in India and Pakistan who surf the net looking for work. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,099 points


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