The Pinch - Direct Start 

FA:  M Hamilton, D Jamieson, B Duff, 1977 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  5 pitches, 700 feet Views: 46 page views Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 16, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

The Pinch Direct starts below a distinct stepped corner to the right of the huge corner taken by Hammer.

1. Climb up the right facing corner on increasingly more awkward holds. Protection is difficult to place, and well spaced apart.

2. Continue up the slabby corner until possible to exit onto the blank slab. Continue on up the slap making the precarious crux pinch move.

3. A nice long pitch, not as difficult as the pitches below, but still worth respect. Belay in the right facing corner.

4. Move up through numerous overlaps until possible to belay above the majority of the difficulties.

5. Continue up slabby broken ground to the top of the slabs.

Descend via the right descent route.

Location 

200 feet left of the coffin stone.

Protection 

Trad Gear