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Carn Dearg Buttress
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Centurion 

Centurion 

5.10a

   

FA: Don Whillans, R Downes, 30th August 1956
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 7 pitches, 650 feet
Views: 147 page views

Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 29, 2007


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Description 

The start of this route is easily recognized, as it ascends the steep central groove of the buttress.

1. Climb up the short wall on the left of the groove, until possible to move right and up to ledges.

2. Climb up the corner above to below an overhung recess.

3. Traverse left then back right and on up to a belay.

4. Move into the corner and up. Trend left up the wall to the arete and on up to a belay.

5. Continue on up easy angles grooves.

6. Climb up to an overhang and then move left. Continue leftwards and then make a step up to a slab which again is traverse leftwards. Belay directly below the overhangs.

7. Traverse right of the belay for 20ft and then up to a straightforward groove, which is followed to easier ground.


Location 

Start below the overlapping central groove.


Protection 

Trad Gear



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By Martin Hind
Sep 23, 2008

Have soloed this and it is generally regarded as classic HVS which compares with 5.9
Occassionally wet in the corner and at the second crux high up. If lightly wet can be bridged avoiding the wet holds in the corner.