Flying Buttress Direct 

FA:  Paul Grey 1966 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch Season:  When it is not raining hard Views: 120 page views Submitted By: Dpurf on Jan 18, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Doesn't that looks like some fun

Description 

Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb up the slab to the center of the roof. No protection until under the roof and it is off to the left. Get to the first big hold and do a blind placement of a #1 BD or was a #2. Sorry I can't remember. Now there is a little trick to getting established, but I am not giving that away. After that brute force will get to the top. Enjoy.
A side note when I first climb in Stanage, I did not understand the ratings. The guy(Patrick) I was climbing with told me on very climb we did there it was 5.8. After my on site of this I thought to myself the ratings here sure are stiff.

Location 

Look for a big roof, wait there are a lot of big roofs there. Just ask some one they will direct you.

Protection 

single set of cams and a set of nuts.