The Sloth 

FA:  Don Whillans 1954 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  When it's dry Views: 92 page views Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The crux roof of the Sloth

Description 

After the first ascent when asked by a dumbfounded bystander how he did it Don Whillans replied with; "it's OK if you use yer loaf." Leaving the bystander wondering if Don had actually used his loaf (head) as a climbing technique.

This is one of the great grit roofs, and, I think, the first to be climbed. Another total classic - but pretty gripping!

1) 80ft 5.9. Up the left side of the Pedestal to it's top and a ledge, now a tricky wall 'till beneath the roof, sling over The Cheeseblock. Now suck up and launch into Whillans' territory...big flakes allow progress to be made to the lip of the roof where jams allow exit moves into the much easier crack beyond.

Tip: Place pro only if you have the power to stop, keep yer feet up too.

Lisa Rands on this route here.

Location 

Crack splitting the huge roof.

Protection 

Nuts, cams, slings.

Add Photo Photos of The Sloth

Through the crux. Keep moving, the holds are very...