The Roaches

BETA PHOTO: Roaches Overview Map

Description 

Ironically some of the best grit is nowhere near Sheffield.

This BIG gritstone crag runs for miles, with a shorter Lower Tier, and a much longer Upper Tier. This is where Joe and Don first met on the rock and boasts such classics as Black and Tans, Valkyrie, Saul's Crack, The Sloth, plus many more. There's much scary hardness here too.

The pro is natural, cams and wires are particularly useful, as are double ropes; a lot of the harder routes use cracks either side for pro.

The something for everybody here - jam cracks abound, roofs , steep walls, slabs - you name it - there's also some good boulders at the base.

Be an expert with natural pro, and natural belay anchors as there are no bolts here.

Getting There 

The nearest town is Leek, from there go north-east on the A53 towards Buxton. Turn off left at Upper Hulme. Soon pass the right turnoff for "Ye Olde Rock" a recommended pub, then down past buildings to the open road which runs along the side of the moors, you'll first see Hen Cloud, and then the big long pull out for The Roaches.

Featured Route For The Roaches

The Sloth 5.9 PG13  International : United Kingdom : ... : Upper Tier

After the first ascent when asked by a dumbfounded bystander how he did it Don Whillans replied with; "it's OK if you use yer loaf." Leaving the bystander wondering if Don had actually used his loaf (head) as a climbing technique.This is one of the great grit roofs, and, I think, the first to be climbed. Another total classic - but pretty gripping!1) 80ft 5.9. Up the left side of the Pedestal to it's top and a ledge, now a tricky wall '...[more]

Add Photo Photos of The Roaches

It's sunny, it's dry, it's grit - what more could ...	Roaches Upper Tier - Bouldering, Marc Chrysanthou.	Gates that enter into the Lower Tier