United Kingdom

Stanage Edge in the Peak District

Description 

Climbing in the United Kingdom offers a large variety of climbing, on a number of rock types in remote mountainous regions as well as many urban venues. The climbing is split into regions, with the main areas being England, Scotland and Wales. Each individual country is then separated into distinct climbing areas.

In addition to the climbs themselves climbers who are new to the area will be confronted with two, sometimes distressing things, the unique grading system, and the fickle British weather. The weather at many areas can change numerous times in a day, and rarely stays the same (good or bad) for long. When the weather is bad, you could visit one of the climbing walls dotted around, however, you will have a much better time visiting one of the many excellent pubs which are sure to be close at hand.

The grading system can be confusing to new comers, but when understood the combination of the technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b, 5c, etc.) and the adjective grade (Severe, Very Severe, Hard Very Severe, Extremely Severe which is subdivided into E1, E2, E3, E4, etc.)gives you a good understanding from the outset on the technical difficulty of the climb, its sustained nature, as well as the seriousness. In summary an E1 6a tell you that the route has probably only one 6a move, which is either close to the bottom of the climb or very well protected, while an E5 6a, tells you the route is sustained and could well be a serious lead.

Getting There 

The easiest way is to fly into one of the major airports. Probably the most common will be London Heathrow. From there hire a car and tour around. Alternatively you can travel around using public transport (trains and buses), but you’ll find that only works for certain areas, close to urban settlements.

Featured Route For United Kingdom

The Sloth 5.9 PG13  International : United Kingdom : England

After the first ascent when asked by a dumbfounded bystander how he did it Don Whillans replied with; "it's OK if you use yer loaf." Leaving the bystander wondering if Don had actually used his loaf (head) as a climbing technique.This is one of the great grit roofs, and, I think, the first to be climbed. Another total classic - but pretty gripping!1) 80ft 5.9. Up the left side of the Pedestal to it's top and a ledge, now a tricky wall '...[more]