Out of Sticks 

FA:  lightner jr, schoffl and schoffl Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12a [details] Length:  80 feet Views: 196 page views Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 12, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>> You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Awesome steep line that I found to be extremely challenging. The main thing I noted was that it simply did not look probable to pull this off at a 12a grade. You get under a bunch of roofs and hard looking stuff but if you just force yourself to believe, you will find a nice 5.11 (or maybe 12a) sequence to bring you up to the next improbable stance. Keep believing!

Location 

This is one route to the right of Monkey Love, which is fairly easy to spot because it is all threads.

Protection 

9 clips to anchors, including 1 or 2 threads. My guide indicates this was last rebolted in 1997, but when I did it in 2005 I didn't note any apparent rust on the bolts.