Jump start! The route starts on a low-hanging tufa and the crux is getting started. Jump up to the starting jug (or reach up if you're 6ft or taller), find another jug, somehow get a foot on the tufa, and continue.
One can start the route on the wall and traverse over to the tufa at about the same difficulty. The route is easier from there to the top.
Location
This is in the middle of 1-2-3 Wall. Stroll to the left past the hordes of climbers out with the guides, and you'll come to a low-hanging tufa. The route starts there.
Protection
Bolts and slings. About ten clips. Rappel anchor at the top.
As each person in our group climbed this route, we noticed the edge of the water getting closer, so we kept moving the rope bag up the beach. At high tide, the belayer would be knee deep.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Mar 9, 2007 rating: 5.10
Just a move or two. Easy if you are strong and tall, hard if you are not.
By Art Morimitsu Administrator From: Huntington Beach, Ca Mar 12, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Makes a fun boulder problem too by just doing the bottom section. I did the boulder start jumped off and then let my partner lead it....in the rain.
The start is like a v2 boulder problem, then the route is very easy after that. I saw a guy get on this by putting a big cheater rock under it, then he bouldered up, fell off, and knocked himself silly on his rock. Best plan is to remove any cheater rocks before starting!
When I did this route with a mate in the early 90s, he jumped up (short little runt, he needed help to get to the hold...) and then did a one-arm chin to casually reach through for the next hold. I nearly gave up climbing on the spot!
RSS Feed
