Photo taken by Bobby Model. This is the last pitch...
Description
This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.
P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)
P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)
P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)
P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)
From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)
Location
Up the center of the north face of the Thaiwand
Protection
A dozen quickdraws and two ropes to get down. The bolts should be good now, as it's been redone 3 times.
One of the all-time best routes ... also the last route I ever did. I climbed hard for 21 yrs, then onsighted it in 2002 and never climbed again. Go figure. Bobby Model rocks too.
I believe that the first pitch shares or is the same as the first pitch of "circus oz". If there are crowds or you're just flat not good enough to do all 5 pitches & top out (like uzz) you can rap from the first station.
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