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Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom Bar)
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Stalagasaurus 

5.11b

   

FA: Will Hair
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 679 page views

Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 14, 2006


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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

It would have really sucked to be on this climb wh...


Description 

One of the finest moderate routes on the island--the “everyman’s route” of the stalactite world. 45 feet of climbing on some of the oddest terrain in the world. Too bad it's not 3X longer.


Location 

Go right from the Freedom Bar for perhaps 50 meters until you see a small cave-like roof low to the ground, formed under a rounded sloping ledge a few meters up. Just above this ledge a stalagmite points up off of a shelf towards the huge stalactite looming above it. Stalagasaurus climbs in from below and left onto the ledge, then up the right side of the stalagmite and stalactite with stems and every other tufa trick you can use to keep the climbing simple.


Protection 

4 good bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of Stalagasaurus Slideshow Add Photo
Jason B. from the UK crusing the upper section of Stalagasaurus.  Steep rock with big holds!

Jason B. from the UK crusing the upper section of ...


Comments on Stalagasaurus Add Comment
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By Art Morimitsu
Administrator
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 14, 2006
rating: 5.11c

Unfortunately the big stalactite everyone stemmed on fell off the wall. The route is a bit harder now, closer to 6C+.

By caughtinside
From: Berkeley, CA
Feb 28, 2007

yeah, without the stalagtite, it's a harder crux, but short. 6c+/7a, 2 move wondery type. but totally fun!

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 5, 2007

Does anyone know the story how it "fell". That thing was so cool!

By alabama slamma
Aug 26, 2009

If your tall you can stem through the crux, making if feel more like 5.9. Great climb
.