The Lion King has a huge distinctive flake on it. Climb to beneath the flake, and then traverse out right and up the right side of the flake. Steep edges and tricky moves lead to the crux right before the anchor.
Great route! Look for the route on Dum's Kitchen where many people are falling off the last move. This overhangs the whole way and is very pumpy. There are two ways to do the crux: many people do a deadpoint for the last hold at the anchor but there's a more static way of doing the move. If you're at your limit like I was you'll be very pumped by the end.
There are four bolts on the route not including the anchor.
Just to let eveyone know, a few people have broken ankles falling off right side of the flake... they hit the dihedral wrong. Fall AFTER you clip the bolt!!!! Personally, I skip that clip and go to the next bolt. Sam
By Art Morimitsu Administrator From: Huntington Beach, Ca Dec 24, 2006
I didn't do any deadpoint up there, and I'm short....like really short. It's not a height-dependent move; I think folks are just pumped and desperate.
I agree, Art. The final lunge to the anchor that people often do is borne more out of desperation than anything else. On my first attempt on the route I latched the final hold for a brief moment and then took the ride. I figured out a better way to do the move on my redpoint effort.
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