Brian following pitch 3. Note the sharp looking r...
Description
The Hand of Bhudda is an outstanding moderate multipitch that summits the Oyster Blade. You get to tag the summit and get an outstanding view of Phi Phi. (there is a photo of this in the Lightner guide.) The pitches are on the short side, about 80' or so each, but this takes advantage of great belay stances. I don't think the route, or the Oyster Blade in general, sees any kind of noticable traffic, you'll probably have it to yourselves.
P1: Come out of the jungle and locate the route by looking at the left side of the formation, and starting up a face to a corner formed by a giant hanging stalagtite coming off the wall. Belay at bolts on top of the stalagtite. .10b
P2: Step left off the stalagtite and continue up, passing a thin crux halfway up the pitch. .10c
P3: Head up and trend just left up, before moving back right into that graphite grey, super sharp, dagger rock. Easy climbing, but very sharp rock, a fall would be bad. .10a
P4: Head straight up! The features on this pitch are crazy, there is dead coral sticking straight out of the limestone! This is the easiest pitch, but also the neatest for the features. Take care though, if you tap on the coral it sounds like you are tapping on glass. Not sure how strong they are, so keep three points on and climb easy. Easy climbing, but if you fall you will be julienned, and I dont' even want to think about what your rope would look like. .8/.9/.10a? (can't remember)
Next, do a 15' scramble up around the notch. You can pop up to the top here. The descent rappel is in the notch. I left a tied red sling here 2/07 to back up the bleached rope, I bet my sling is white now too.
One double rope rappel takes you to an ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE hanging belay. Three mediocre bolts, with lousy hangers that are stuffed with rotting cord so you can't clip direct. That cord needs to be replaced, and the bolts should be too. I was out of slings when I got there, otherwise I would have done something about it. Plus, we almost got our rope stuck on the pull, there is a lot of crap for it to hang up on up there, so take care.
Another double rope rap leads to the ground, although you could probably swing way left to get back on the route and rap from the belays.
Location
Just left of center on the Oyster Blade. See P1 description.
Protection
Bolts. As of 2/07, every lead bolt was a Petzl stainless glue in. Every belay had one Ti bolt, and one SS glue in, with the typical Thai setup of a piece of tied rope and big steel ring. Take some slings with you to back up the rope. You may want to leave some behind, so tied slings are recommended.
You need a second rope to do the standard descent. You might be able to rap the route with a single 60m, but you might get the rope hung up.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Jul 26, 2007
Just some follow up: I sent Shamick, one of the guys who does a lot of rebolting work in Thailand an email regarding the state of the bolts, anchors and especially the rappel, some time in May 07.
Also, for climbers looking for more moderate grades, I'd suggest Phi Phi. There is a ton of 5.10 there, and not many climbers, so few lines. It was a nice warm up for us, and let us adjust to the humidity, before we started crushing it on Ton Sai. heh.
I did this route in December of 2007, it was great, though I found the top pitches a little scary because of the dagger rock...never climbed on the stuff before, so that's probably why I found it intimidating. The rapel blew, I rapped back down to one of the anchors you lead up on, ropes of course got stuck on the pull, the rock up there is like velcro! Your rope will stick to everything including vertical face! Overall a cool route though!
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Aug 9, 2008
yeah that dagger rock on the upper two pitches is sharp and feels like you're climbing on glass! if you look at the photo I posted where I'm following the last pitch you can see what it's all about, that is actually coral sticking out of the limestone, outrageous!
I'm told there's similar features on the upper pitches of the Thaiwand, but I haven't seen them for myself...
Rapping back to the route was probably the safe play. The lower standard rap station is SCARY. It has three old bolts with old hangars. The hangars are stuffed with old cord/tat, and you can't clip them directly, you have to clip the power point, two crusty biners. If you go this way, take fresh webbing/cord and a knife!
The Oyster Blade
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