An OK climb, but obviously bolted from the best stances, not to protect the hardest climbing the best. This is not a good warm-up or beginner climb and merits some caution. You will want to be sure to flash this one or a ledge fall may result.
Location
This is the right most route of the South facing part of the Archway and is the furthest of the 4 adjacent routes from the rebar ladder. It can be started on the low angle section of Gruntfest past 3 threads on longer slings, or can start independently out to the right in its own corner.
Protection
Either 3 thread and 3 bolts or 4 threads and 3 bolts, both to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Gruntfest, all depending on how it is done. Take a few longer slings. Also, beware that the name translates to 'Chicken Shit' probably due to the rather disconcerting fall potential despite being a sport climb. THis is perhaps the most poorly bolted climb on the wall, earning it the reputation in the local guidebook as being 'A 6a for the 6c leader.'
RSS Feed
