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Crazy Horse General Area 


Chiang Mai

Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 7, 2006
Administrator: Art Morimitsu
Latitude: 18.7852  Longitude: 99.2359 
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Josh Dulberger pulling the steep tufas on Crazy Ho...


Description 

This section is under construction- it was just handed over to me.


Overview:
Chiang Mai is a medium sized but rather developed city in Northern Thailand, up towards the border with Burma and Laos. It is considered Thailand's 'Second City,' second of course to Bangkok. This perhaps owing to it's population, and perhaps to it's feel and nature. Although there are certainly metropolitan areas much larger than Chaing Mai with it's population of perhaps a quarter-million, such as Korat (2 Million people). These larger metro areas are actually clusters of smaller cities. Chaing Mai, as such retains it's title to second largest despite a relitively small-town feel, size wise.
Chaing Mai does however have a large town feel in other ways.
It is similar to Bangkok in it's large markets, including the night market there which is one of the worlds largest; I could compare it to the famed Sreet Bazar of Cairo. Thailand is famous for it's markets, and this is one of the big ones.
It is similar to Bankok in it's ExPat presence. Expect to see many 'fahrangs' (foreigners) in Chaing Mai. The closer to the markets and bars you get, the more you will see. Some are fully resident, some are long term visitors, and others simply tourists.
And like in Bangkok, due to the large presence of Expats and tourists, there are all kinds of bars and nightclubs... and when I say all kinds, I mean all kinds, which as you know brings us to the other similarity...
For those who were unaware, AIDS is running rampant in S.E. Asia. If you want to get a massage, get a legit one. It will be $10 or less and will be relaxing too...
Lodging:
There are hotels and guest houses galore in town. If you want 4-5 star accomodations, stay at a major hotel, if you want a lower price place and like large hotels, search a travel website on line for a bargain. If you prefer a guesthouse, then choose more carefully. Typically you choose by environment and neighborhood. The East end of town by the old city walls is where all the nightlife is and might be a little 'seedy' for some people's stnadards, whereas the west central area inside the old walls is relativly quiet. Within a block of the climbing shop there are more than 1/2 dozen guesthouses with rates from $10-20 per night. The ones I recall are the TK guesthouse, the Same Same guesthouse, the J&J guesthouse and the Julie Guesthouse. I stayed at the J&J in an AC room for $15 per night and it was clean and comfortable. The Same Same had the best fast and cheap breakfast on the block, and there were convenience stores and very cheap internet places all over. The Julie was definately the popular place... but it had a bit of a crowded, noisy, ehhh... hippie feel to it. If dreads and drum circles are your thing, then that's your place.

Eating:
hawkers
restraunts
snacks

Amenities:
phone
internet
scooters
Rental Cars
books
water (sustainable water)


Getting There 

Chaing Mai has an airport. Thai air travel is cheap. Combined, these two facts mean that you will probably be flying into Chaing Mai. You can take an overnight bus, or a train, but this will be a sleepless night in perhaps less than ideal quarters, and not be as safe and secure for you or your belongings. Although Thailand is not a dangerous place by most standards, it is a developing nation, and caution or at least awareness of your situation is necessary when traveling there. As well, you are unlikely to save much money by going overland compared to flying. Presently you can book a flight round trip from Bangkok to Chain Mai on Air Asia (www.airasia.com) for well under a ninety dollars if you have some flexibility on your travel dates and times. The flight is under two hours and Air Asia is a pretty new fleet with good servies. Expect to pay $3-5 extra to check a large bag if you can't carry on what you have.
Once in Chaing Mai, there will be cabs a plenty at the airport. They are tightly regulated and on the level. They will not scam you if you know where you are going. It is a flat rate into town, at present exchange rates, about $10US. Do not expect your driver to know your destination in english unless it is a major hotel (I.E. Sheriton or Meridian) or the most popular guesthouse in town (Julie Guesthouse). Have your destination name and address ready when you touch down. A phone number would also be handy- the driver will have a cell phone and can call for directions.
Maps are marginally useful in Thailand. They might be good for you, but the locals don't use them. Orienting by map for them, even written in Thai, is a foreign concept and practice. They don't get the 'North' thing, nor will they recognize what anything represents. I have not yet figured out if the problem is illiteracy or the entire concept, but every time I've tried to show a driver something on the map, I gave up after 15 or more minutes of htem flipping the map around and driving 1/2 block only to do it again. They will not, in fact, tell you that they do not know where you are going. This may be try try to make you happy, and may be to be sure not to miss out on a fare. The point is, make sure that you know where you want to go and make sure ht driver knows the place- use facial expressions and other social cues to be sure, or have a phone number.
Once in town, Cabs will be harder to find, but the three-wheeled Tuk-Tuks are omnipresent. They are not metered, but do have standard fares to go about anywhere. Around old town the fee will be 40 Baht, maybe 60 to the airport (it is presently 33Baht/$US) but they may ask for more. It is up to you to decide if you will shake your head politely and let them see that you know the real going rate, or to pay the extra and make them entirely happy for $.30 extra. Personally, I let them know that I am aware of the going rate, but I'll give them the extra in a tip if they are gracious and friendly or get there trouble-free.
To go to and from the climbing area, arrange to ride on the bus from the climbing shop or rent a scooter (unpreferred if you are only here for a short time), but more on that later...


Guidebooks 

-Guidebook sales help CMRCA pay for the expansion and development of Crazy Horse Buttress

-100% of the profits from sales of Sam's guidebook goes toward the rebolting effort)


Guide Services 


Things to do 

Mountain Bike
Visit the Mueseums and large Night Market
Tiger Kingdom
The Bar Scene
Overland and River Tours

(will elaborate over time, and invite other's comments/links that I can integrate)


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chiang Mai:
It's Got To Be Funky   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Crazy Horse General Area : Crazy Horse Buttress
Gruntfest   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Crazy Horse General Area : The Archway
Sandbag   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Crazy Horse General Area : The Archway
Browse More Classics in Chiang Mai

Photos of Chiang Mai Slideshow Add Photo
Massive beehives on the flanks of Crazy horse.

Massive beehives on the flanks of Crazy horse.

Crazy horse buttress, Chiang Mai, Thailand

BETA PHOTO: Crazy horse buttress, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Crazy Horse

Crazy Horse

Crazy Horse head

Crazy Horse head

Crazy Horse main area

Crazy Horse main area

classic 10 at Budda Buttress, Crazy horse

classic 10 at Budda Buttress, Crazy horse

monkey coming back from lunch, Crazy Horse

monkey coming back from lunch, Crazy Horse


Comments on Chiang Mai Add Comment
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By mobley
From: Haven, Ct
Mar 7, 2008

great place to climb for a week. the local climbing shop/guide service called Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventure gives rides to/from the crag for 200 baht including a great lunch, fully worth it.

By robynladin
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 18, 2008

Great area for some good limestone sport routes. i went a few years back with the chiang mai rock climbing adventures. the guides gwang and taw (if they are still there) are THE BEST! they also have a small bouldering wall at the store. agreed with the awesome food. just watch out for the biting ants! overall great climbs... i highly recommend 'magic drop.'