Cavalo Louco 

FA:  NA Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] Length:  6 pitches, 900 feet Season:  All year Views: 87 page views Submitted By: Christian on Nov 28, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Following the second pitch of "Cavalo Louco"

Description 

6 pitches. 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.

Then pitches 2-5 trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses. All these pitches are bolted but with some fairly long runouts between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to keep down rope drag even on the bolted pitches. You could probably place some smaller pieces to ease the runouts on a few sections.

At the top of pitch 5 on big ledgy area move belay slight up and about 40 feet right to the bottom of a short right facing corner. This corner ends at the downhill part of the man-made structures on the top.

Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt. The protection and belay bolts are all the so-called "grampo P" , 1/2" with a U shaped hanger soldered on. So you can rap off midpitch without leaving a biner if necessary.

Location 

The start is at a crack a few feet left of the start of the famous Italianos route.

Protection 

First part of the first pitch takes 2 or 3 pieces of gear, .5 to 2".

Extendable trad slings are necessary to keep down rope drag. I believe the guide used 36" slings fully extended but slighty shorter or longer would probably work.