Cayman Brac  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  19.7189, -79.7992 Map Page Views:  21,996. Good page? (5 likes)    Administrator:  Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu 88° | 81° 88° | 77° 88° | 81° 88° | 79° 88° | 81°

A classic sunset shot on Cayman Brac.

Description 

We step out of the tiny Cayman Brac airport and find ourselves in a new and mysterious world. The air is heavy and the wind sharp, though soft and does not sting like the desert winds we had come from. The aroma of salty ocean fills the air. We drive our rental car on the wrong side (if you’re from the US) of the road through the darkness, and I can barely make out limestone cliffs through the breaks in the densely vegetated roadside. Palm trees sway as their leaves filter the strong wind, their sound blends with thunderous waves pounding the shoreline. Soon we arrive at the Bluff View, the place we call home for the next week, and retire. We sleep little as anticipation and sounds outside our window stir our dreams.

Awaking to early morning dawn, we rise excited to explore the mystery that was clouded by the darkness the night before. The island paradise transforms as the sun ascends above the deep blue Caribbean Ocean. We walk along pink coral and shell strewn beaches exploring sharp gray ironstone and looking into tidal pools filled with small creatures. For the next week time slows, nearing irrelevance. The days are filled with walks on the beach, solitude, wind, waves, amazing sunrises and sunsets, climbing, snorkeling, caving, dining, relaxing, and hanging out with friends.

Climbing 

Cayman Brac (Brac=bluff in Gaelic) is one of the most beautiful areas I have ever been lucky enough to clip bolts. The climbing exists on a bluff that runs west to east, with large limestone cliffs rising up to about 150 feet in height on the northeast end of the island. The island has all you might expect for limestone sport climbing: steep and juggy overhangs to vertical and technical rock, stalactites and flowstone, sometimes sharp, or sometimes smooth and slick, and pockets and jugs. If you are looking for solitude, this is your place. If you are looking for lines to wait in to get onto climbs, go elsewhere. There are several developed crags on the island with 47 climbable routes, with grades range from 5.7 To 5.12+. Most of the climbing ranges from 5.10 to 5.12. Experienced climbers will enjoy this area more than beginners, as there are few climbs in the easier range. The few that do exist at this grade, however, are quite good.

BOLT WARNING: Many climbs are equipped with standard stainless steel bolts and hangers. In the marine environment, these older bolts corrode quickly. Climbs with these old bolts are dangerous and have resulted in serious injury. DON'T EVER CLIMB THESE ROUTES! 47 of the 77 routes on the island have been equipped with newer, corrosion resistant Titanium Tortuga glue in bolts (www.libertymountainclimbing.com). In the future, more will have these newer, safer bolts. Routes chosen to be re-bolted were the highest quality routes (stars) of each grade at each area. Although you may see some non-rebolted routes discussed on this site and in other guides, they are mostly included to assist in finding other routes.

GEAR: There is no place to purchase climbing gear on the island, so everything will have to be brought with you. If you stay at the Bluff View House you will have static ropes and a clip stick, just bring a squid or something similar to clip the bolts. A rack of 20 quickdraws will get you up any route on the island (the longest route requires 19). Some slings for some of the wandering routes at The Point may also be helpful. Take something to ascend with (i.e. prussic or Tiblock) when climbing at the point. All gear should be washed when you return home to get rid of the salt. Because of the sharp rock you will walk over during the approaches, sturdy hiking shoes and gloves recommended.

Crags 

To prevent becoming fried by the intense Caribbean sun, climb in the shade! Info included below to help plan your day accordingly.

Love Shack Wall: Just a three minute walk from the Bluff View house. Warm up on 5.11d/.12a. Shade @ 3:00 or 3:30 in March.

Orange Cave: A great way to spend an afternoon and to get used to the stone on the brac. This area offers climbing from 5.7 to 5.11a, and includes one of the steepest 5.10s anywhere! Shade @ 2:00 in March.

The Wave Wall: With routes graded from 5.8 to 5.12, and the greatest concentration being in the 5.10 range, this crag offers a high concentration of moderates. Unfortunately, it can only be accessed during calm seas, a luxury we were not afforded on our trip. Shade @ 2:30 in February.

Edd's Place: Only 3 routes here (and only two with Titanium bolts), and only accessible during calm seas. Shade @ 2:00 in February.

The Northeast Point: Adventurous climbing ascending with nothing but water and air below you. Many routes here from 5.9 to 5.12. Shade all day in February, the top of the routes get sun by mid March.

Neptune's Lair: Though only a few climbs here, the beauty of the area makes the 25 minute walk well worth it. If you continue just a little further beyond the crag, Neptune’s Cave is well worth exploring. Shade most of the day, with evening sun in March.

Dixon's Wall: This area is home of the best rock and the best routes on the Island. Though only 4 (5.11) with titanium bolts, thee of them are four star routes. Please ask permission before passing through the Dixon’s property. Shade all day.

Getting There 

In the center of the Caribbean, 450 miles to the south of Miami, Florida, and 150 miles south of Cuba are the Cayman Islands. Cayman Brac is the easternmost island of the Caymans, 85 miles northeast of Grand Cayaman, and 5 miles east of Little Cayaman.

Many of the major airlines offer service to Cayman Brac (i.e. American, United, Cayman Airways). A visit to your favorite online booking agent (i.e. Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, etc.) will lead the way. In some cases (as in ours when traveling from Albuquerque, NM), these sites mix different airlines and come to a price more expensive than you will come up with if mixing airlines on your own. For example, we traveled from Albuquerque to Tampa on Southwest, then to Grand Cayman and finally Cayman Brac by purchasing a separate flight on Cayman Airlines. Doing this was less expensive than the prices any of the online agents came up with.

Lodging 

On the South side of the island there are many houses available for tourists to stay. However, for climbers, I would recommend contacting John Byrnes (jbyrnes@frii.com) to see if the Bluff View climber’s house is available. Staying here will ensure you don’t have to bring static ropes, which are helpful for rappelling into the climbs at The Point. He also has stick clips available (which may be difficult to travel with), which you will most certainly want to use on some of the climbs.

oldskipharper (see comment below) suggests "many alternative places to stay on the island. One of the best is La Esperanza, www.laesperanza.net , on the North Side. It's actually very convenient to all routes on the island, not just the South side. It is a 50's style 'motel' and/or 'houses', has a bar, restaurant, grocery and car rental. Owned by a very friendly local Bussy Dilbert, it is usually calm and quiet during the week, but on Friday and Saturday nights, they 'jerk chicken Cayman style, locals hang out and party - many times (depending) with live music. A superb place to relax, catch an incredible Cayman sunset and enjoy the 'local color'.

Two additional websites are good resources for a variety of accommodations and more detail about 'The Brac'": www.itsyourstoexplore.com
www.gotocayman.com

Climate and When to go 

The Cayman Islands have two seasons: winter, from November to April, and summer, from May to October (which is also the rainy season). Rainfall tends to come in short bursts of heavy showers, and rock quickly dries as the sun returns. The water temperatures range from 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and from 82 to 86 in the summer. Cayman brac is hotter and drier than Grand Cayman, with the dry season during the winter. June through October is hurricane season. The most ideal weather conditions tend to occur from January through March.

Resources 

Websites:
- The ONLY climbing guide that is kept current is at John Byrnes website: www.climbcaymanbrac.com/

- Larry Hamilton's Trip Report: pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/Cayman_Brac.htm

- Information about many of the islands attractions can be found here: www.caymanbrac.com/

Book
Adventuring On Cayman Brac: A Guide to Great Adventures on this Small Caribbean Gem.
By: Skip Harper
Heel and Toe Publishers, 2002

A great guide to get you acquainted with the Island. Gives great information on history of the island, scuba, snorkeling, climbing, hiking, caving, running, fishing, and other activities.

The author has a website on the brac here: www.jharp.net/cayman_brac.htm

The Classics

Featured Route For Cayman Brac

Out of Africa 5.11d  International : North America : ... : Dixon's Wall

I felt like this was the best route that we did during our visit. This route ranks as one of my favorite sport routes anywhere. After stick clipping the first bolt your confronted by a difficult move directly off the ground (though it can be made a little easier by traversing in from the right) that taller people will have an easier time with. After your established onto the climb, ascend gray elephant trunk like stalactites (can even through in a gratuitous hand jam if you wish) to a blank look...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Cayman Brac Slideshow

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The Bluff View climbers house, owned and operated ...	And this is just after five minutes of walking aro...	Dean playing around on a palm tree.
Some of the creatures on the island.	More creatures.	There are many caves around the island to explore ...
BETA PHOTO: Old stainless steel bolts carode easily in the sea...	BETA PHOTO: The newer titanium glue in bolts are far more caro...	The island has excellent snorkeling with clear wat...
BEWARE of the iron shore! This is what happens wh...	looking towards wave wall	yes, the water is this blue.
yet another beautiful cayman brac sunset	Bussey's place, La Esperanza, with "Bob" the cat c...	Approach to Wave Wall during low seas and low tide...
For climbers who dive, there is expansive underwat...