Riverside

There is good climbing on both sides of the river ...

Description 

East facing area that overlooks the river. It looks like the overhanging climbs would stay dry in a rain storm.
Secluded when we were there, could be crowded but climbs are spaced well enough apart.
Climbing is on great quality schist.

A compact guide is contained in 'Rock Deluxe' published by the NZ Alpine Club and there is a local guide 'Wanaka Rock' available at the local R&R and other outdoor stores. This guide covers climbs on the riverside proper. There are six or seven shorter climbs encountered in the easier grades on the climber's right of the trail right out of the grassy car park. NZ 13-17 (5.6 - 5.9)

Getting There 

From Wanaka-
Drive through town toward Glendhu Bay. 5km past Glendhu Bay on the same road, will bring you first to the Tombstone. Continue driving and turn left immediately after the first bridge. Continue back past the quarry and onto a grassy cul-de-sac with a toilet. You'll see the cliff.