BETA PHOTO: This is the climbers campground a short walk from ...
Description
Limestone sport crag with a good variety of routes, I think about 250. Some great overhangs, but mostly vertical with a few slabs. Most of the belays are somewhat shaded, but you have a wonderful view of the green countryside at the top. There is an additional cliff 15 minutes away with sunny, open routes directly across the road from the sea.
Also, check out Acid Test....a wicked inverted boulder problem over a glacial stream, on the opposite side of the road. First 15 ft is easy, but I was told there were only a handful of people who'd made it over the tip.
I'll add some more specifics once I find my travel journal, but feel free to edit, as my posting will never be even remotely complete.
Getting There
North end of south island. Main access trail has numbered trails leading off of it, making finding routes super easy. There was a private climbers camp that was just a couple min walk from the crag.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Paynes Ford:
To get to Paynes Ford, let's assume you're starting in Nelson:
Follow signs to Richmond (I think you'll be on Hwy. 6, heading roughly west). When you get to Richmond, follow signs to Motueka. When you get to Mot, follow signs to Takaka. (If you must stop in Mot, there's a darling little independent theatre, I think it's called the Gecko or something like that.) You'll go up and over the Takaka Hill (bring water for your radiator if you car is so inclined). Driving time from Nelson is about 2 hours. Paynes Ford will be on the right, look for the DOC signs, about 3km before you get to Takaka. I would assume the roads have names or numbers, but it's much easier just to know what cities to head towards.
If you're taking a trip to Golden Bay, DON'T MISS THE MUSSEL INN! Such an awesome spot. And Golden Fries, the fish and chips van thing, is pretty awesome too.
I agree with the Golden Fries in Takaka - great place and reasonable prices.
The hangdog camp sells two guidebooks, a $10 and a $25 version. The $10 is good for a couple of day jaunt with good descriptions and hand drawn topos, but tops out about the NZ 24 (hard 5.11) grades. The $25 book is more complete with all the harder routes and photos.
As for Takaka hill - when NZ indicates a curvy road sign - they mean it! I think I counted about 230 turns in 20km over that hill.
golden fries is closed on mondays!!! be aware of this, and that wholemeal closes real early (like 4pm!) and their food is amazing.
if you want a bowl (yes, bowl) of coffee, hit up dangerous kitchen...and there's pizza. real good kind, note that pizza in new zealand doesn't start with a marinara base...that's bbq sauce. uh-huh. real good, but different.
rest days are rad...but don't rest. but if you must, then try the 'art' of fishing for salmon at a salmon farm (short drive toward's town from hangdog). yeah, there's no skill involved, but fresh?
If your accustomed to using the YDS take the conversions to the Australian system with a grain of salt. The Kiwis are pretty good sandbaggers and the numbers don't always translate well. Watch out around the 19-24 grades, they can be stiff compared to the American equivalent.
Also, the climbing at Paynes can be quite pumpy and hard to get the onsight. Typically you search through a sea of crap looking for the best hold. It takes a week or maybe longer to really settle into the area, but once you do it can be really, really good.
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