Mothership Connection is the sweet tufa route up the gently overhanging face left of the Bronco Bowl and right of Time For Livin'. Begin by scrambling up the large flake/left-facing corner in the center of the Outrage Wall. From the teetering blocks on the top of this flake, reach up and clip the first bolt. Don't be confused by the left-hand bolt line which is British Invasion (12a).
The first pitch is 11d, 100' long, and leads to a semi-hanging belay at a stance below the tufas. There is a stout crux move a little ways above a bolt -- the next bolt is almost impossible to clip before doing this move, but if the draw is hanging, or you have a stiffy, you can probably get this clipped for overhead pro on the crux. Good climbing and fun mantles lead to the anchor.
This is the money pitch. Begin by climbing up and left off the belay as the wall steadily steepens above. First climb a series of brown tufas (mostly easy 5.12) to a cruxy traverse move right to a black tufa. This move is bouldery and is facilitated by an epoxy-reinforced flake. Past this there are two more closely spaced clips before a very difficult boulder problem off an undercling that ends in a flake jug. This is unquestionably the crux and may be easier for longer wingspans. Continue up outrageous tufas past a few rests and a final steep section to the anchor, which is located in a large hueco.
Make sure to have a 70m cord for lowering off the second pitch. A 60 is fine for the first pitch. Supposedly this whole thing has been climbed in one 230' pitch, but this would require over 25 draws and reserves of strength to make clips with that much rope out. No matter how you do it, this route is absolutely spectacular.
Protection
At least 15 draws + the anchors for the second pitch. Less for the first. Near the end of the second pitch is a bolt that is placed directly on a shallow tufa: The biner levers over an edge here and is a little disconcerting, but the climbing to the next bolt is easy.
RSS Feed
