This route is still a little dirty, but should clean up with time; and it goes thru a scenic feature and has a nice top out. Destined to be classic.
P1: 5.10a/b Start on sunny side up jugs to a ledge and clip same first bolt as Peek-a-Boo Jesus. Then follow the next four bolts left of the off width. Pull through the opening and look for a bolt high up on the right wall. Follow bolts up face over mini-roofs to a belay on your left (enjoy the shade). 10 bolts 120 feet.
P2: 5.10d Follow bolts up to and thru large roof (crux) to same anchors as "Off the Notch". 60 feet
Descent: Rap down to anchors at top of pitch 1, then rap with 70m rope to ground (barely) or with 60m rope use anchors from Gettin' Wood to get down safely. It's a short hike back around to retrieve your stuff from the start of the climb.
Location
From shady side of spires, hike up and around spires to the sunny side. Start directly below the saddle.
This route does not deserve 3 stars--it does not deserve any stars. There is only 20 feet of good climbing on the whole thing and that is at the 2nd pitch crux.
I didn't find the climbing on this one to be all that great, except for the cool part of going through the window, and summiting on the spire. Remember to stay to the right (taller spire) after heading through the window, it is easy to get on a different route here. I should have read the guide a little closer before starting up.
I agree with the above comments, but still found it to be fun in sections. Going through the looking glass was fun and unique! Second pitch crux roof is fun and precarious. Lots of scarry undercling moves.
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