BETA PHOTO: This is the side of the rock fin that Estrellita i...
Description
Like most of the multipitch routes at Portrero the pros are getting 1200 feet off the deck while clipping bolts with stunning views. The downsides are loose rock and rattlesnakes. This route has a few loose pitches in areas where knocking rocks could injure climbers below.
I've included the rating as listed in the guidebook although variations can bring this route down to a 5.10b.
This is the third canyon from the approach road. The climb is on the East side of the canyon, and the West side of a fin of rock topped by a palm tree. The route is currently the 8th route from the road on this face. I highly recommend buying either one of the bound books for the area or the pamphlet that is available at Tammy's Cafe.
Descent: Despite bolted anchors, do not climb past the 5th pitch unless you are going to finish because you will rap through loose rock over other routes. You rappel off the opposite side of the rock fin that you climbed. Follow fixed rope to first rap station then follow painted arrows for 5 long raps. Walk down Los Lobos Canyon.
Protection
12 quickdraws, at least a 60M rope (many pitches can be linked with a 70M)
My hands were raw from climbing Dope Ninja yesterday, so we thought that we would do just the first few pitches and call it a day. We left Posadas at noon or so. Part way up it was only 2pm, so we decided to do the whole thing. I struggled on Dope Ninja, but did fine on this climb; and my hands enjoyed the fact that the rock was not nearly as sharp. I thought I would add a little to the description above:
This climb is to the right of Rat Bastard, which you can identify by the cold shut anchor.
P1: 5.9 Climb up, angling slightly right to an anchor left of a dead palm tree. 90 feet. semi-hanging belay.
P2: 5.9 Continue up, then climb thru a huge flake (don't tug too hard) to a nice belay. 80 feet or so.
P3: 5.9 Climb ramp to your right 50 feet to a nice belay. Alt take the bolt line straight up for 5.11b
P4: 5.8 We took the easier traverse to the left. From the belay you can see the first 4 bolts. Climb up onto ridge and finish above your belayer. Alt take the bolt line straight up for about 30 feet to the same belay 5.11a.
P5: 3rd class. Unrope and follow fixed rope for about 100 feet to a bolted anchor. Then follow trail up and right for about 100 feet to a ramp with bolts on it.
P6: 5.7 Climb edges in ramp for about 70 feet to an anchor.
P7: 5.7 Climb more edges in ramp for another 70 feet or so to an anchor.
P8: 5.10a The ramp steepens, but the holds are still good. Move up and near the top climb left to the anchors. 50 feet.
P9: 5.9 Shift to anchors on left and climb up almost a chimney at times to another good belay stance. 100 feet.
P10: 5.10a Climb dihedral using some crack technique or just face climb at a slightly harder grade. 60 feet.
P11: 5.10a Continue climbing dihedral using some crack technique or just face climb at a slightly harder grade. 60 feet. I like how all the bolts are on the left wall.
P12: 5.8 I did some chimney technique, but my partner face climbed it because she had a backpack on. Approx 70 feet.
Note: on the second rappel down the backside, there is a second fixed rope to lead you where to go. It is very squeaky to rap the fixed rope, but you may need it to retreive your rope if it gets stuck around a tree on the ledge above. All other raps are piece of cake. Walk down the easy to follow trail.
Perfect beta for the route konopa. In the new paperbound guide all of your 10a pitches are listed at 10b. The only one that really warrants a 10 grade at all was the 10th pitch where you either need to do some committing laybacking or offwidth technique to grovel up past the crux. All of the other '10s' were super chill and never felt desperate at all - ie great feet and nice jugs, although like most routes there, some of the jugs are hard to find!
Note you can also climb mr fluffers wild ride (a great long 5.9) to skip the first 3 5.9s. once you hit the anchors you can shwack it up and left to the anchors at the base of the 11a variation.
If you are a strong 5.9 leader, you can lead this climb. The tens are soft and it doesn not feel very exposed. It's a great climb with a really great rap. Use the fixed line if your rope gets stuck between the fins (yes, this happened to us...) You can link several pitches on this climb, just make sure you carry 24 draws.
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