Pancho follows the line using the crack to the lef...
Description
Awesome bolted crack climbing.
P1 - 10c head up and left of a large block, pull a small bulge and continue up and into a finger crack. (30m)
P2 - 10b follow cracks up to a big flake, step left into a hand crack (30m)
P3 - 10c Traverse out right a ways and then up, pull an exciting bulge (30m)
P4 - 5.9 Chimney up to gain cracks that lead up and right. Belay up and right (around the corner) from the obvious rap anchor.
P5 - 10a Broken terrain up the top.
Descend via rappelling from the top. Note: when rapping you will end up using anchors on Uncle Crusy's, putting you uphill from the start of the climb. Basically don't leave your pack, shoes, etc at the first belay, as I did, b/c it is a huge pain in the ass to get back over to the first belay.
Location
This climb is located on the lower end of Motta Wall, a couple routes to the right (up hill) from Snot Girlz.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 31, 2007 rating: 5.10-
A 70m rope on this route and most other newer routes at the Potrero, such as Treasure of the Sierra Madre, is highly recommended, if not required, for safe rappelling. We climbed this route on double 60s and had to rap on them because rapping a single 60m rope came up short on a couple pitches. Thankfully, you one can always clip into a protection bolt and rap off a leaver-biner if the rope comes up short but it's scary getting that close to the end of the rope and is somewhat disappointing to leave a biner. Rapping on double ropes works but there so much vegetation next to the routes that having tons of rope to pull can be a pain.
The fifth pitch has two options: the right one as described above and the left one, which we thought it was about 11b. Both are long but have intermediate anchors to rappel with a single rope.
Mota Wall
RSS Feed
