Stef rapping the route. Super nova begins left of ...
Description
This route climbs the distinct light-colored wall at the very back of the canyon. The route starts at the bolt line to the right of Gusada Negra. There are only two lines of bolts here, so it's very easy to find.
P1 - 11a, follow bolts that trend up and slightly left. This pitch is quite good with finger locks, slabby moves and a crimp here and there. (30m)
P2 - 5.8, bolts up a left-facing corner/crack system (30m)
P3 - 5.6 lots of in-cut juggy holds (30m)
P4 - 5.6 similar to P3 (30m)
P5 - 5.9 face holds up to a right-facing corner (30m)
P6 - 5.6 big horizontals (30m)
P7 - head up for 20m and cut left pulling up on a slabby bulge to a hanging belay (25m).
P8 - follow low-angled terrain up and right to a belay just below the big ledge.
Rappel the route to the base.
Protection
Standard Potrero rack of draws, guide book says 12 draws
Stout first pitch, a complete ladder after that. With a 70 meter rope it's easy and speedy to do 2 pitches at a time.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Apr 2, 2008
The first pitch is pretty damn stout and not like the rest of the route. There are some big chimneys full of packed, fractured rock that look worse than they are. You don't have to climb in the chimneys. The holds in places tend to angle downwards, so it's a bit different from other routes. This is probably due to the feature being a runoff gully. While an interesting route, no particular pitch really stands out as being that memorable.
Many people prefer to do just the first pitch as there are so many other multi-pitch routes in EPC that have more consistent difficulty. Not a bad route though I probably wouldn't choose to repeat it.
Las Estrellas (The Stars)
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