Konrad and Joseph from Austria on Craig Luebben Ro...
Description
This three-pitch route follows the striking dihedral on the edge of "El Fin".
P1 - 5.8 climb up low-angle terrain basically following the profile of the formation to a belay niche at the base of the dihedral. Alternatively, one can also climb Sheba Shite (5.9) or Same Same but Different (10c) to arrive at the same spot. (100 ft)
P2 - 10c follow bolts up the obvious dihedral, smearing and stemming for a sustained 100 ft. Belay at bolts on the right.
P3 - 5.9 follow broken and blocky terrain to the top of the fin. Follow the ridge-line for 15 feet and look for rap rings on the south (climber's right) side.
One double-rope rap will put you on the trail 100ft uphill from the start.
Location
Cross the Arroyo at the second canyon. The trail is easily distinguished, follow it to the base of the fin and around (left) to the front for the original 5.8 start.
Protection
Standard Potrero rack of draws.
Photos of Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben Route) Slideshow
As of 2/19/2008 the condition of the rappel anchor at the top of P3 is as follows: There are two 3/8" bolts, only one of which is equipped with a hanger and quick link. Its twin appears to have been pulled out from the rock about 1", is bent downward, and has no hangar.
Rappel from the two-bolt anchor (chains with a snap link) atop P2 to avoid this dangerous anchor. You can reach the ground from here with a 70m rope. The last pitch--about 30' of 5.9--are not worth it. By the top of P2 you've already climbed the best part of the route.
I saw that bent, 1-bolt anchor on pitch three as well. Don't use it. Instead, climb 15 feet past it to the ridgeline you will find a big shiny anchor equipped with two rap rings. Rap from off and onto the Fin de Semana wall.
the anchor atop p2 is crap as well, two rusty 1/4 inchers that are not equalized by that chain. Dangerous. We topped out and rapped off the backside down golden werewolf on good bolts. one rap with a 70m makes it, or 2 with a 60.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
