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First Sella Tower
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Tissi Route 
Trenker 

Trenker 

5.7

   

FA: Luis Trenker, Hans Pescota. 1913
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 6 pitches, 590 feet
Season: Summer
Views: 233 page views

Submitted By: eric dixon on May 25, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.


Description 

This route ascends a large groove on the south-west corner of the tower.

Pitch 1 - After scrambling up some rock steps, climb up the prominent corner/groove to the right of the south face. (40m)

Pitch 2 - The "Trenker Crack". Stem up the polished corner with a wide crack/chimney in it. (40m)

Pitch 3 - More easy climbing up the corner system. (40m)

Pitch 4 - Follow the broken crack up to the end of the corner. (30m)

Pitch 5 - Traverse right out of the corner system to the base of a chimney. (20m)

Pitch 6 - Climb up the chimney to the top of the formation. (40m)

Descent - Climb down into the notch between First and Second Sella Towers. Descend some well marked grooves. Then head down and right to a path that returns to Sella Pass.


Location 

The route climbs the south-west corner of First Sella Tower. Start just to the right of the large south face.


Protection 

There are some pins on the route. Also bring a rack of nuts and some slings.



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By Bill Flaherty
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 29, 2008

The crack on pitch two is absolutely the slipperiest piece of rock I have ever touched. It is polished to a high gloss from nearly 100 years of ascents. Feels like church marble.

By BenL
Mar 21, 2008

that's true. my first dolomites route. the first ascent leader was as famous movie-maker.