Big Micheluzzi 

FA:  Luigi Micheluzzi, Ettore Castiglioni. 1935 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  12 pitches, 820 feet Season:  Summer Views: 103 page views Submitted By: eric dixon on May 30, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Pitch 1 - Face climb up to a decent ledge below some slabs.

Pitch 2 - Climb the slabs up and then through a short corner. Next move right under an overhang to a ledge.

Pitch 3 - Follow the ramp up and right, then traverse left on the ledge. Continue up a short corner to a small stance.

Pitch 4 - Face climb up and right, then through short sections of chimney and crack to a ledge.

Pitch 5 - Move up and right on easy face and ledges towards a small horn.

Pitch 6 - Traverse right on face, around the corner.

Pitch 7 - Another traverse pitch to the right. This leads to the base of a corner.

Pitch 8 - Climb the corner and then up the black water-streaked face.

Pitch 9 - Continue up the black face, and then a crack.

Pitch 10 - Climb up and left away from the black streaks, through some slabs, and towards a stance on a small ledge.

Pitch 11 - Up and right on a ramp and face, back towards the black water streaks.

Pitch 12 - Face climb up and right to the large terrace.

Descent - Traverse left to between the Piz Ciavazes and Second Sella Tower. Scramble down to the road.

Location 

The route ascends the south face of the Piz Ciavazes. The name of the route is written on the rock at the base.

Protection 

There are sufficient pins on the route. Maybe brings some nuts and/or small cams.