Messner 

FA:  Reinhold Messner, Gunther Messner. 1968 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.10- [details] Length:  11 pitches, 820 feet Season:  Summer Views: 188 page views Submitted By: eric dixon on May 26, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.

Description 

This is a steep route up the north face of the tower. It is on good rock and follows a line up through the black water streaks.

Pitch 1 - Climb up a groove and then move right towards the black streaks.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right across the black streaks to the top of a small pillar.

Pitch 3 - Climb steep face up to below a roof.

Pitch 4 - Climb up through the roof and continue up a shallow corner.

Pitch 5 - Traverse directly right to a stance on a small ledge.

Pitch 6 - Climb up the groove, then move right under the roof and up to below another roof.

Pitch 7 - Climb around the roof and face climb up and left to the base of a ramp.

Pitch 8 - Climb the ramp, trending up and right to the base of a shallow corner.

Pitch 9 - Climb the shallow corner, then continue up a broken crack.

Pitch 10 - Climb up and right, mostly on face, to the large ledge.

Pitch 11 - Climb easy face to the top of the formation.

Descent - Follow a climbers trail east into the gully leading south between Second Sella Tower and Piz Ciavazes. Follow the gully to the base of the face and Sella Pass.

Location 

The route ascends the north face of the Second Sella Tower.

Protection 

There are a number of pins in place. Also take a selection of small to medium nuts and cam. Extra slings.