Schubert 

FA:  Pit Schubert, Karl Heinz Matthies. 1967 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  7 pitches, 820 feet Season:  Summer Views: 158 page views Submitted By: eric dixon on May 25, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.

Description 

This is a great line. It is steep, exposed, and continuous!

Pitch 1 - The crux right off the bat! Climb the right-facing corner then up steep slabs. (35m)

Pitch 2 - Climb broken cracks up and slightly right to near the large gully right of the route. (45m)

Pitch 3 - Follow a line that links up a series of more broken cracks to a small stance near the gully to the right. (45m)

Pitch 4 - Step left and climb slabs to the right of a groove. (35m)

Pitch 5 - Be careful not to get off route! Do not continue up the groove! Move left and find a crack that leads up to some face and a ledge. (35m)

Pitch 6 - Take the ramp up and right and face climb to a poor belay stance. (40m)

Pitch 7 - Face climb straight up to the large terrace. (50m)

Descent - From the final belay, climb up and right and then traverse left to the gully between Piz Ciavazes and the Second Sella Tower. Then scramble down to the road.

Location 

The route ascends the South Face of the Piz Ciavazes. Park on Sella Pass road about level with the face. Look for a climbers trail that leads up to the base.

Protection 

There are a number of pins in place. Also brings a selection of nuts and slings. A few small cams could also be useful.