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Second Sella Tower
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Fata Morgana 
Kasnakoff 
Messner 

Kasnakoff 

5.8

   

FA: Anton Zelger, Frau von Kasnakoff. 1913
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 9 pitches, 820 feet
Season: Summer
Views: 98 page views

Submitted By: eric dixon on May 25, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.


Description 

Good, fun route on steep face and corner climbing.

Pitch 1 - Climb up and to the right to reach a small niche above a crack. (40m)

Pitch 2 - Start up face and continue up through a corner/chimney. Then move to the right to gain a small ledge. (50m)

Pitch 3 - Climb up the loose-looking, black chimney to gain a ramp. Follow the slightly chossy ramp up and slightly left. (45m)

Pitch 4 - Follow the chimney up to below some yellow overhangs. Move right under the overhangs to just left of the arete. (35m)

Pitch 5 - Move around to the right side of the arete and face climb up to a large ledge. (25m)

Pitch 6 - From the ledge, climb up the crack then move back to the left side of the arete and continue up a groove and crack to below a small overhang. (50m)

Pitch 7 - Move right under the overhang and back to the right side of the arete to a ledge. Continue up the crack and groove to a stance on the shoulder of the arete. (50m)

Pitch 8 - Continue up easy face just to the left of some cracks to get to a notch with some blocks. (45m)

Pitch 9 - Face climb up easy terrain to the top of the formation. (50m)

Descent - Follow a climbers trail east into the gully leading south between Second Sella Tower and Piz Ciavazes. Follow the gully to the base of the face and Sella Pass.


Location 

The route ascends the north-west arete of the Second Sella Tower.


Protection 

There are a number of pins in place. A rack of nuts and some slings are also useful.