Ceuse

Morning light on the Ceuse massif.

Description 

Limestone... Duh, Amazing routes...Check, Longish approach...Yes. Can be crowded on weekends, but seclusion can be found if that is what you are after. Singular brilliant cliff band crowning a hilltop. Face curves from West to South to East so sun and shade can be had pretty much anytime you want, to cold or wet in the dead of winter, the top of the cliff is a ski slope. Summer follow the shade, late fall follow the sun. The cliff is divided into about 12 different sectures and each has its own character, some are lower angle and more boken, others sport stunning stripes of blue and orange, some are just plain huge and others quite dark and intimidating.

Great routes from 5.10 to as hard as you can climb. Single and multi pitch sport climbing. A rack of 15 or more draws and 70m rope will do on most routes, of note the guide book only mentions if routes are longer than 35m so if you have a 60m rope beware.

Because of the long approach many climber stash their rope, QD's, shoes and harnesses under the boulders at the cliff they plan on climbing at the next day or a favorite spot, and just hike up with clothes food and water. This has lead to problems in the States most notably with bouldering pads but at the time I visited it seemed like standard practice.

Getting There 

Make your way to Gap. Then head up the hill to Sigoyer and up D219 toward the hill top cliff. There is camping on the right, Les Guerins and a gite/auberge (mini hotel/bed and breakfast) on the left and finally parking at the Col Des Guerins at the end of the road.

The Classics

Featured Route For Ceuse

Les Colonnettes 5.13  International : France : ... : Secture Biograpie

When I was there a winch start past the first 2 bolts (I think it was 2) was considered legit and the route was 5.13a. The boulder problem bumps the grade up a bit even though it is not excedingly hard V6 or V7ish. Climb the long tuffa up the steep wall to its end. Continue up the overhanging face on pockets to the anchor. An extention has been done called The Black Bean and is 5.14- and a 70m pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Ceuse Slideshow

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The popular slope-fest of Blocage Violent dances u...	Sommerfugl, Ceuse. Photo by Thomas Michalsen.	Late afternoon light makes the grass glow golden n...