Dixon's Wall

BETA PHOTO: A poorly put together panorama of the Dixon's Wall...

Description 

We found this area to have the highest quality stone, and the best routes on the island. The limestone is complete with pockets, immaculate flowstone and curtains, and an upper stalactite band. There are five routes listed here, though only four have been re-bolted with Titanium Tortugas. The wall is in the shade all day.

Please ask permission before passing through the Dixon’s property. They were very friendly when we were there in March of 2009. We chatted and learned we were perahaps the first climbers that had been back to the island since Hurricane Gustav wreaked havoc on the island in August of 2008.

It is also suggested that if it's not your day, to watch your language.

Getting There 

On the North Road, drive 2.1 miles (3.4 km) east past La Esperanza. Look for the Spot Bay Primary school to your left and park just west of the school above a white wall that is along the road. Looking at the cliff behind the school you can spot where you are going: a beautiful white wall with a large stalactite band hanging from the top. The Dixon's home is green and white with a white picket fence. The house belongs to Mr. Hindenberg "Berg" Dixon and the house to the east belongs to his son, Mr. Peter Dixon. You may knock on either door to request permission to climb.

Routes (Left to Right) 

TI: Titanium Bolts

(01) Bussy's Bluge (TI, 5.11c/d)
(02) Lizzard the Gizzard (TI, 5.11d)
(03) Dixon's Delight (TI, 5.11b)
(04) Out of Africa (TI, 5.11d)
(05) Buffalo Soldier (5.12a/b)

The Classics

Featured Route For Dixon's Wall

(03) Dixon's Delight 5.11b  International : Cayman Brac : Dixon's Wall

As this is the easiest route on the crag, it is the "warm-up". I found it much easier the second time around, after knowing the sequence. A tricky move off the ground will get you to good holds that help you through a small roof. After passing the fourth bolt some went to the left while others went directly above the bolt. You get a nice rest just before the overhung stalactite band, use it while you decipher the sequence of moves above. Exciting...[more]   Browse More Classics in International