We step out of the tiny Cayman Brac airport and find ourselves in a new and mysterious world. The air is heavy and the wind sharp, though soft and does not sting like the desert winds we had come from. The aroma of salty ocean fills the air. We drive our rental car on the wrong side (if you’re from the US) of the road through the darkness, and I can barely make out limestone cliffs through the breaks in the densely vegetated roadside. Palm trees sway as their leaves filter the strong wind, their sound blends with thunderous waves pounding the shoreline. Soon we arrive at the Bluff View, the place we call home for the next week, and retire. We sleep little as anticipation and sounds outside our window stir our dreams.
Awaking to early morning dawn, we rise excited to explore the mystery that was clouded by the darkness the night before. The island paradise transforms as the sun ascends above the deep blue Caribbean Ocean. We walk along pink coral and shell strewn beaches exploring sharp gray ironstone and looking into tidal pools filled with small creatures. For the next week time slows, nearing irrelevance. The days are filled with walks on the beach, solitude, wind, waves, amazing sunrises and sunsets, climbing, snorkeling, caving, dining, relaxing, and hanging out with friends.
Climbing
Cayman Brac (Brac=bluff in Gaelic) is one of the most beautiful areas I have ever been lucky enough to clip bolts. The climbing exists on a bluff that runs west to east, with large limestone cliffs rising up to about 150 feet in height on the northeast end of the island. The island has all you might expect for limestone sport climbing: steep and juggy overhangs to vertical and technical rock, stalactites and flowstone, sometimes sharp, or sometimes smooth and slick, and pockets and jugs. If you are looking for solitude, this is your place. If you are looking for lines to wait in to get onto climbs, go elsewhere. There are several developed crags on the island with 47 climbable routes, with grades range from 5.7 To 5.12+. Most of the climbing ranges from 5.10 to 5.12. Experienced climbers will enjoy this area more than beginners, as there are few climbs in the easier range. The few that do exist at this grade, however, are quite good.
BOLT WARNING: Many climbs are equipped with standard stainless steel bolts and hangers. In the marine environment, these older bolts corrode quickly. Climbs with these old bolts are dangerous and have resulted in serious injury. DON'T EVER CLIMB THESE ROUTES! 47 of the 77 routes on the island have been equipped with newer, corrosion resistant Titanium Tortuga glue in bolts (www.libertymountainclimbing.com). In the future, more will have these newer, safer bolts. Routes chosen to be re-bolted were the highest quality routes (stars) of each grade at each area. Although you may see some non-rebolted routes discussed on this site and in other guides, they are mostly included to assist in finding other routes.
GEAR: There is no place to purchase climbing gear on the island, so everything will have to be brought with you. If you stay at the Bluff View House you will have static ropes and a clip stick, just bring a squid or something similar to clip the bolts. A rack of 20 quickdraws will get you up any route on the island (the longest route requires 19). Some slings for some of the wandering routes at The Point may also be helpful. Take something to ascend with (i.e. prussic or Tiblock) when climbing at the point. All gear should be washed when you return home to get rid of the salt. Because of the sharp rock you will walk over during the approaches, sturdy hiking shoes and gloves recommended.
Crags
To prevent becoming fried by the intense Caribbean sun, climb in the shade! Info included below to help plan your day accordingly.
Love Shack Wall: Just a three minute walk from the Bluff View house. Warm up on 5.11d/.12a. Shade @ 3:00 or 3:30 in March.
Orange Cave: A great way to spend an afternoon and to get used to the stone on the brac. This area offers climbing from 5.7 to 5.11a, and includes one of the steepest 5.10s anywhere! Shade @ 2:00 in March.
The Wave Wall: With routes graded from 5.8 to 5.12, and the greatest concentration being in the 5.10 range, this crag offers a high concentration of moderates. Unfortunately, it can only be accessed during calm seas, a luxury we were not afforded on our trip. Shade @ 2:30 in February.
Edd’s Place: Only 3 routes here (and only two with Titanium bolts), and only accessible during calm seas. Shade @ 2:00 in February.
The Northeast Point: Adventurous climbing ascending with nothing but water and air below you. Many routes here from 5.9 to 5.12. Shade all day in February, the top of the routes get sun by mid March.
Neptune's Lair: Though only a few climbs here, the beauty of the area makes the 25 minute walk well worth it. If you continue just a little further beyond the crag, Neptune’s Cave is well worth exploring. Shade most of the day, with evening sun in March.
Dixon's Wall: This area is home of the best rock and the best routes on the Island. Though only 4 (5.11) with titanium bolts, thee of them are four star routes. Please ask permission before passing through the Dixon’s property. Shade all day.
Getting There and Other Logistics
In the center of the Caribbean, 450 miles to the south of Miami, Florida, and 150 miles south of Cuba are the Cayman Islands. Cayman Brac is the easternmost island of the Caymans, 85 miles northeast of Grand Cayaman, and 5 miles east of Little Cayaman.
Many of the major airlines offer service to Cayman Brac (i.e. American, United, Cayman Airways). A visit to your favorite online booking agent (i.e. Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, etc.) will lead the way. In some cases (as in ours when traveling from Albuquerque, NM), these sites mix different airlines and come to a price more expensive than you will come up with if mixing airlines on your own. For example, we traveled from Albuquerque to Tampa on Southwest, then to Grand Cayman and finally Cayman Brac by purchasing a separate flight on Cayman Airlines. Doing this was less expensive than the prices any of the online agents came up with.
On the South side of the island there are many houses available for tourists to stay. However, for climbers, I would recommend contacting John Byrnes (jbyrnes@frii.com) to see if the Bluff View climber’s house is available. Staying here will ensure you don’t have to bring static ropes helpful for rappelling into the climbs at The Point, and he also has stick clips available (which may be difficult to travel with), which you will most certainly want to use on some of the climbs.
Climate and When to go
The Cayman Islands have two seasons: winter, from November to April, and summer, from May to October (which is also the rainy season). Rainfall tends to come in short bursts of heavy showers, and rock quickly dries as the sun returns. The water temperatures range from 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and from 82 to 86 in the summer. Cayman brac is hotter and drier than Grand Cayman, with the dry season during the winter. June through October is hurricane season. The most ideal weather conditions tend to occur from January through March.
A great guide to get you acquainted with the Island. Gives great information on history of the island, scuba, snorkeling, climbing, hiking, caving, running, fishing, and other activities.
As this is the easiest route on the crag, it is the "warm-up". I found it much easier the second time around, after knowing the sequence. A tricky move off the ground will get you to good holds that help you through a small roof. After passing the fourth bolt some went to the left while others went directly above the bolt. You get a nice rest just before the overhung stalactite band, use it while you decipher the sequence of moves above. Exciting...[more]Browse More Classics in International
If you're looking for a place that feels like the "ends of the earth" then go to Brac. I mean that in a good way of course. This is the most laid back place I have ever been in my entire life. If you're looking for tourist type, night life then stay away. However, if you just want to unwind, relax and re-charge then go. Brac is a magical place you will never forget, ever.
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
Slideshow
