Pamplemousse 

FA:  Peter Croft, Greg Foweraker Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.12b [details] Length:  3 pitches Views: 22 page views Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Oct 28, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

P1 - Start at for 'Hairpin', climbing the first traverse pitch. 5.8

P2 - climb the 'Hairpin' crack about halfway to a small alcove, then make a tenous traverse left into a hard leaning fingercrack. Battle your way up the crack with decent locks but bad feet until you reach a belay below the obvious roof/overlap feature. 5.11b

P3 - Clip a bolt and pull a V5/6 boulder problem to gain good locks near the lip of the roof/overlap. Swing your foot up over the lip, look down at the ground, let out 'whoop' and pull the wild moves over the lip! A short easy crack leads to the belay. As short pitch. 5.12b

Rap from here, one 60M rope will do. Or continue up another dirty looking pitch of 5.7 A2? as for 'Hallucination'.

Location 

Starts the same as 'Hairpin' in the center of the Papoose. Look for a roof like feature with a thin crack. That is the crux.

Protection 

Gear to 2 inches. Heavy on the small sizes.