Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
This route climbs the deep couloir immediately left of the West Buttress of the South Peak. Snow completely melts out of this couloir by early-mid July. On the first ascent, crevasses completely spanned the couloir and some had to be bypassed by adjacent rock; earlier in the season, the couloir offers continuous snow to 45 degrees.
Location
Immediately left (north) of the West Buttress of the South Peak.
Descend via the same route if conditions permit or via the south ridge.
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