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The Old Settler
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Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Leftover Rib 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

The Contact Zone 

5.8+

   

FA: BC Mountaineering Club party - 1980
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Season: summer and fall
Views: 18 page views

Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009


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Jordan Peters silhouetted on one of the lower pitc...


Description 

This route climbs the southwest rib on the east-central summit, following a prominent geologic contact between orange and black rock. The first half of the route is mid-5th class with many variations possible. The last 4 pitches are sustained in the 5.8/9 range and follow the crest of the narrowing rib through a series of steep to slightly overhanging walls with excellent holds, rock quality and protection.


Location 

Begin immediately across the gully from the base of the West Buttress of the South Peak and about 30m right of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September.

From the summit, scramble west to the west-central summit and downclimb or rappel into the north-central col. Descend the 3rd class scrambling route ramp on the west face to talus below the face.


Protection 

Full rack to 3".