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The Old Settler
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Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Leftover Rib 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

Standard Route 

3rd

   

FA: possibly A. Dalgleish, E. Brooks, 1931
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 3rd [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 1000 feet, Grade II
Views: 12 page views

Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: West face of the Old Settler from the end of the l...


Description 

This scrambling and descent route climbs the west face of the peak via a north-trending ramp of light rock. From Daiphy Lake, hike up talus and scree below the west face, trending left and up to gain the base of the west face near where the ramp ends at talus. Scramble up solid rock to gain the ramp itself, which involves much sandy scrambling on gritty slabs and the occasional section of 3rd class rock. The ramp ends at the col between the central and north summits. The north (highest) summit is 3rd class from the col while the central summit is stiff 4th class.


Location 

Descend same route - rappels unnecessary.


Protection 

Bring ice axe in early season (until late July).