Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Papoose
Show routes:
Select route...
Centerfold 
Hairpin 
Mushroom 
Pamplemousse 

Centerfold 

5.10b

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Views: 119 page views

Submitted By: blakeherrington on Aug 14, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Looking down the first pitch from Mocassin ledge. ...


Description 

Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.

P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.

P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.

P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first two.
This climb takes a line to the left of a major left-facing corner syst


Location 

This route begins in the center of the Papoose and climbs to the left of a prominent left-facing corner at the same height as P2. The quick and easy walkoff (8 minutes) goes down and to the right. It's possible to rappel the route, but some shenanigans are encountered with a 60m rope, and you will likely bother other climbers.


Protection 

Cams to 3" and a set of nuts



Photos of Centerfold Slideshow Add Photo
View down from the second belay. The bottom half of the pitch is solid hand crack with some challenging moves. The upper half turns to face climbing.

BETA PHOTO: View down from the second belay. The bottom half o...


Comments on Centerfold Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
May 25, 2009

Fun route. Last pitch is fully bolted, though a bit run out, there is a nice small cam placement between the first and second bolts if the potential for landing on your belayer makes you nervous.
Easily rap'd with two 60m ropes in two rappels. I am not sure if a 70m rope would be long enough for the first rappel off the top. But a 60m is definitely way short.