Looking down the first pitch from Mocassin ledge. ...
Description
Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.
P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.
P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.
P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first two. This climb takes a line to the left of a major left-facing corner syst
Location
This route begins in the center of the Papoose and climbs to the left of a prominent left-facing corner at the same height as P2. The quick and easy walkoff (8 minutes) goes down and to the right. It's possible to rappel the route, but some shenanigans are encountered with a 60m rope, and you will likely bother other climbers.
By Mike Teschke From: North Vancouver May 25, 2009
Fun route. Last pitch is fully bolted, though a bit run out, there is a nice small cam placement between the first and second bolts if the potential for landing on your belayer makes you nervous. Easily rap'd with two 60m ropes in two rappels. I am not sure if a 70m rope would be long enough for the first rappel off the top. But a 60m is definitely way short.
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