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Petrifying Wall
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Even Steven 

5.10+

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 105 feet
Views: 81 page views

Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jul 22, 2008


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Description 

Steep climbing off the ground quickly leads to a blocky horn and small slab (bolted anchor). From the left-facing-corner above the slab, follow cracks and a surprising number of face holds, passing one or two small overhangs. Step leftward ~25 feet before the top of the wall into a new crack which leads to the chains. This route requires a bit of every type of technique, and it's length, variety, and not-always-obvious protection makes it a challenging lead, the beautiful ocean view from the top are well-deserved.. Although given only 2/5 stars in the Select Guide, this route is a classic that should be climbed by everyone competent at the grade. McClane gets it right in his book... "a tour-de-force of 5.10 climbing".


Location 

At the far left end of the Pet Wall, a few small roofs and obvious clean cracks mark this route. It is also immediately left of the bolted "No Name Road".


Protection 

Double set of cams, and a set of nuts. RPs or offset cams can be used.

With a 60m rope, you may need to use the slab anchor ~10m off the ground, in order to get back down. Definitely have your belayer tie into the rope if you're on a 60m.